glass, and the best I have found for the purpose is prepared in the 

 following way : 1 Ib. each of tallow and flour and Ib. of whiting are 

 mixed together with cold water and sufficient Brunswick green to tint 

 it as required, and the mixture is then warmed in a pail before apply- 

 ing it to the glass, which should be done when the sun is shining. 

 This lasts well and does not render the house too dark if put on 

 thinly. This will only be needed in the spring and summer, and houses 

 with a north aspect will not require it. Some Orchids require more 

 shade than others, and those like Cypripediums or Phalsenopses should 

 be given the shadiest side of the house. Artificial shading should, 

 however, only be employed in very bright weather and in the hottest 

 part of the day to prevent the temperature rising too high, as too 

 much shade weakens the plants and prevents their growths ripening. 



PROPAGATING. Few Orchids can be quickly increased by any 

 artificial method of propagation, and it is owing to this fact that 

 hybrids raised in this country so long maintain their value, whereas an 

 introduced species may be scarce and high-priced for a time, and 

 then perhaps a fortunate collector sends home a large shipment and 

 the value falls immediately. Amateurs cannot depend upon propa- 

 gation to add much to their stock, as in most cases it takes too long, 

 and it is far better to purchase small established plants, which can 

 be had much cheaper than formerly, or even to procure imported 

 plants. It may happen, however, that a particular variety is possessed 

 that it is desirable to increase, or perhaps it is wished to try a few 

 experiments, and in either case some hints will be needed as to the 

 modes to be adopted. In the first place do not commence experi- 

 menting with any valuable plant ; gain a little experience first with 

 boine of little consequence, for Orchids are easily injured by any 

 process of division unskilfully performed, and some seem to object 

 to it altogether. Strong healthy examples only should be selected, 

 and even these must be carefully treated afterwards. The latter 

 remarks especially apply to, the method adopted with many Orchids 

 having short ovoid pseudo-bulbs of the Cattleya or Odontoglossum 

 types namely, cutting between the pseudo-bulbs and through the 

 rhizome, so as to retain come roots with each. The safest plan is to 

 leave these in the pot for some time until it is seen that fresh growths 

 are coming from the divided portions, when they can be potted or 

 otherwise as is most convenient. This plan is also adopted when it 

 is desired to produce what are termed " back growths " to make a 

 better specimen, as old pseudo-bulbs will often form growths when 

 thus treated, greatly improving the appearance of a plant. Lycaste 

 bkinneri is readily increased in this way, and old pseudo- bulbs can 

 be separated and potted singly, giving them little water until a bud 

 starts from the base. Most hardy tuber-bearing Orchids can be 

 increased by division in autumn after their stems are dead, or prefer- 

 ably in early spring before growth starts. 



