soil should be double dug (not trenched) to a depth of 1 8 inches, July. 



and if it is very light or sandy, it is improved by an addition of Planting of 



heavy clay or loam. If too stiff, some light, well-rotted Roses 



manure, and rough sharp sand, etc., is an improvement. Some 



well-rotted manure may also be dug in before planting. When 



the ground is prepared, select if possible a fairly dry day for the 



planting, as the ground will work so much better, and will be 



benefited all the following Summer by not being trodden about 



in wet weather. The Roses can be planted either 2 feet square 



or 2 feet by 1 8 in., according to the size of the bed, with a path 



about a yard wide between every two or three rows, if a great 



number are planted. A hole should be dug to about the depth 



of one foot and about one foot square, and made nice and level at 



the bottom with fine earth. The roots should be evenly spread 



out over the soil, a spadeful or two of fine earth thrown in on 



them, and be well trodden down. A little manure can then be 



put in on top of the earth, the hole filled up with some more 



soil, and very lightly pressed down with the foot. 



When finished, the union of the Rose to the stock should be 

 about two inches below the ground. After the bed is planted 

 a mulching of manure on top of the ground all round the plant 

 is a good thing. If the ground is at all dry at the time of 

 planting a half gallon or so of water to each plant is beneficial, 

 but it is better done after the mulch is on, as that prevents the 

 soil from cracking. 



About the beginning of March the Roses will require pruning, 

 and this is an important matter with young plants, as a great 

 deal depends on the first year's pruning as to whether the plants 

 will make good-shaped bushes or not. The different classes of 

 Roses require different methods of pruning. (The N.R.S. issue 



103 



