ROSES 295 



the flowers, as are severe wintry winds on the plants. 

 While, therefore, it is never advisable to plant roses near 

 large trees, or where they will be over -shadowed by 

 buildings or surrounding shrubbery, some shade during 

 the heat of the day will be a benefit. The best position 

 is an eastern or northern slope, and where fences or other 

 objects will break the force of strong winds, in those 

 sections where such prevail. 



The best soil for roses is a deep and rich clay loam. 

 If it is more or less of a fibrous character from the 

 presence of grass roots, as is the case with newly plowed 

 sod ground, so much the better. While such is desirable, 

 any ordinary soil will answer, provided it is well-ma- 

 nured. Cow manure is strong and lasting, and has no 

 heating effect. It will cause no damage, even if not 

 rotted. Horse -manure, however, should be well rotted 

 before mixing it with the soil. The manure may be 

 mixed in the soil at the rate of one part in four. If 

 well rotted however, more will not do any damage, as 

 the soil can scarcely be made too rich, especially for the 

 Everblooming roses. 



In planting, care must be taken to avoid exposing the 

 roots of roses to the drying influence of the sun or air. If 

 dormant field- grown plants have been purchased, all broken 

 and bruised roots will need to be cut off smoothly and 

 squarely. The tops also will need cutting back. The cut 

 should always be made just above a bud, preferably on 

 the outer side of the cane. Strong -growing sorts may 

 be cut back one -fourth or one -half, according as they have 

 good or bad roots. Weaker -growing kinds, like most of 

 the Everblooming roses, should be cut back most severely. 

 In both cases it is well to remove the weak growth first. 

 Plants set out from pots will usually not need cutting 

 back. For pruning a sharp knife is preferable to prun- 

 ing- shears when it can be used, as the latter bruise the 

 bark more or less. 



