ROSES 297 



Mme. Camille, and others are readily wintered there in 

 this way. 



About Chicago* beds have been successfully protected 

 by bending down the tops, fastening them, and then 

 placing over and among the plants a layer of dry leaves 

 to the depth of a 1 foot. The leaves must be dry, and the 

 soil also, before applying them. This is very essential. 

 After the leaves, a layer of lawn -clippings, highest at 

 the middle, and 4 or 5 inches thick, placed over the 

 leaves, holds them in place and sheds water. This pro- 

 tection carries over the hardiest sorts of Everblooming 

 roses, including the Teas. The tops are killed back when 

 not bent down, but this protection saves the roots and 

 crowns; when bent down, the tops went through without 

 damage. Even the Climbing rose Gloire de Dijon was 

 carried through the winter of 1894-5 at Chicago without 

 the slightest injury to the branches. 



Strong plants of the Everblooming roses can now be had 

 at very reasonable rates, and rather than go to the trou- 

 ble of protecting them in the fall, many buy such as they 

 need for bedding purposes each spring. If the soil of the 

 beds is well enriched, the plants make a rapid and lux- 

 uriant growth, blooming freely throughout the summer. 



Pruning is an important matter in rose growing. 

 Climbing and pillar roses need only the weak branches 

 and the tips shortened in; other hardy kinds will usually 

 need cutting-back about one-fourth or one-third, according 

 to the vigor of the branches, either in the spring or fall. 

 A slight cutting -back also after their June flowering in 

 the case of the Eemontants, will encourage more flowers. 

 Severe pruning, however, will only induce the growth of 

 vigorous leafy shoots without flowers. The Everblooming 

 roses will need to have all dead wood removed at the 

 time of uncovering them in spring. Some pruning 



* American Florist x., No. 358, p. 929 (1895) . See pages 58 to 67. 



