PEAR PLUM 317 



scab, will be found to be a sure remedy for this trouble. 

 This disease is distinguished from the true pear-blight 

 or fire -blight by definite spots or blotches on the leaves and 

 the tendency of the leaves to drop prematurely. 



THE PLUM 



While clay is not as necessary for plum as for pear 

 trees, they succeed well on moderately heavy clay soils, 

 but seem equally adapted to strong, sandy loams. Trees 

 grown on myrobalan stocks are best for heavy soils, but 

 if it becomes necessary to place them on a light soil, 

 those grown on peach roots will give best results. 



The distance at which plums should be placed varies 

 from sixteen to twenty feet each way, according to the 

 size of the trees and the nature of the soil ; the strong- 

 growing sorts upon heavy soils require the greater, while 

 weak varieties on lighter soils will succeed at the lesser 

 distance. 



VARIETIES OF THE PLUM. The following varieties 

 of European origin will be found desirable for growing 

 in the northern and eastern states: Bradshaw, Imperial 

 Gage, Lombard, McLaughlin, Pond, Jefferson, Fellenberg, 

 Shropshire, Coe Golden Drop, Bavay or Reine Claude, 

 Grand Duke, Monarch, and Black Diamond. 



Several of the Japanese varieties are also well adapted 

 to growing in these sections, as well as in the states 

 farther south. The trees are generally hardy, but they 

 bloom early, and are apt to be injured by late frosts in 

 some localities. Among the better kinds are the Red 

 June, Abundance, Chabot, Burbank, and Satsuma. 



Few of the above sorts are hardy in the Northwest, and 

 growers there have to rely upon varieties of Prunus 

 Americana origin. Among these are: Forest Garden, 

 De Soto, Rollingstone, Weaver, Quaker, and Hawkeye. 

 Farther south still other classes of plums have beeu 



