ROOT CROPS 357 



Carrot seed is small, arid germinates slowly. Be careful 

 that the earth does not bake over the row before the plants 

 come up. Radish seed sown in the same drill (page 37) 

 will break the crust and mark the row. For late crop, seed 

 may be sown as late as midsummer, unless the very large 

 varieties are used. 



There are no serious enemies or diseases. 



PARSNIP. Treat exactly like carrot, so far as sowing 

 and thinning are concerned. For early use and summer 

 successions, plant Early Round, and for later crops Long 

 Smooth, or some good strain of Hollow Crown. Parsnips 

 may be left in the ground all winter without protection, 

 and the roots are then dug in warm spells, or in spring, as 

 wanted. The main-crop varieties, as Long Smooth, Hollow 

 Crown and Student (Fig. 235) require the entire season in 

 which to grow. 



No serious enemies or diseases. 



SALSIFY (Fig. 236). This delicious and much-neglected 

 vegetable requires the entire summer for its development. 

 Sow in early spring, being careful not to plant too thick. 

 Thinning is a little difficult, but the plants must not be 

 crowded. Leave four to five inches between plants. When 

 the ground does not freeze excessively, salsify roots may be 

 left out throughout the winter, and dug whenever a potato 

 fork or a crowbar will get them out. Usually, however, 

 the roots should be dug before the soil freezes, and stored in 

 slightly moist soil, or in moss, in a frame or cellar. Mam- 

 moth Sandwich Island is practically the only variety offered 

 for sale. 



No enemies. 



RADISH. The first crop in spring should be grown in hot- 

 beds or frames (See pages 67 to 88) ; but a tolerably early 

 crop may be secured in the open ground. A mellow 

 " quick" soil is essential. Radishes do not thrive in clay. 

 Radishes must grow very rapidly to be tender, and they 

 should be eaten while still small. Sow in drills a foot or 



