OF SUNDRY HERBS 123 



SMALLAGE 



Smallage has little but its old-fashioned name to recom- 

 mend it, for it has a very disagreeable taste. It is wild 

 celery, and as Dethicke says, " It joyeth in the shadow and 

 cometh well in any ground. Leave only a stem or two and 

 it will endure for ever without any weeding whatever.'* 

 The old herbalists claim for it the same virtues as parsley, 

 and it was formerly used in salads and in pottages. 



SMALLAGE GRUEL. In a Marble Mortar beat great Oat- 

 meal to meal (which requireth long beating) then boil it 

 three or four hours in Spring water. To a posset full of 

 two or three quarts of water put about half a Porrenger full 

 of Oat-meal, before it is beaten ; for after beating it appeareth 

 more. To this quantity put as much Smallage as you buy 

 for a penny, which maketh it strong of the Herb and very 

 green. Chop the smallage exceeding small and put it in a 

 good half hour before you are to take your posset from the 

 fire : You are to season your Gruel with a little salt, at the 

 due time ; and you may put in a little Nutmeg, and Mace 

 to it. When you have taken it from the fire, put into it 

 a good proportion of butter, which stir well, to incorporate 

 with the Gruel, when it is melted. The Closet of Sir Kenelm 

 Digby Opened, 1669. 



SORREL 



Both garden sorrel and French sorrel are good " pot- 

 herbs," but the French sorrel is not so bitter. Formerly 

 sorrel was eaten like spinach, and it was commonly put in 

 soups also. Mrs. Bardswell tells us that " when no apples 

 are forthcoming for apple sauce sorrel leaves are a good 

 substitute." 



Sorrel seeds should be sown in March. French sorrel 

 likes a dry soil, and garden sorrel plenty of moisture. Both 

 can be increased by division of roots in spring or autumn. 



" Sorrel plays a very important part in Belgian cookery, 



