OF SALLETS 143 



the tops of red sage ( r< with their flowers they retain all 

 the noble properties of the other aromatic plants a plant 

 endued with so many wonderful properties as that the 

 assiduous use of it is said to render men immortal "), the 

 young tops of hyssop, thyme, marigold and marjoram, 

 Jack-by-trie-hedge or Sauce alone, the tips of leeks (" a 

 little shred comes not amiss in composition "), lettuce (" Galen 

 saith it breeds the most laudable blood, and the great 

 Emperor Augustus attributing his recovery of a dangerous 

 sickness to them, it is reported he erected a statue and built 

 an altar to this noble plant "), young mallow leaves, mercury, 

 salad burnet, purslane, corn-salad, cowslip leaves, cresses 

 (" quickening the torpid spirits when the tender leaves 

 flowers and seeds are laudably mixt with the colder Plants "), 

 young basil, borage and bugloss leaves, chervil (" never to be 

 wanting in sallets as long as they may be had, being exceed- 

 ingly wholesome and chearing the spirits "), samphire (" you 

 cannot provide too much of this excellent ingredient"), 

 ox-eye daisy leaves, plantain and yarrow, vine tendrils, 

 wood sorrel, young cabbage leaves shred finely, and scurvy 

 grass. Ashen key, broom and elder buds pickled were all 

 common ingredients, and sometimes they had the candied 

 buds of flowers. Evelyn was somewhat contemptuous of 

 beet- root, and describes it as being " of quality cold and 

 moist, but sometimes commendable with wine and pepper." 

 Evidently the English did not serve it shred, for like other 

 writers he comments on the Italian and French custom of 

 paring it, " contrived into curious figures to adorn their 

 sallets." 



And then what care must be taken in preparing the salad ! 

 " Let your Herby ingredients be exquisitely cull'd and 

 cleansed of all worm eaten slimy cankered dry spotted or 

 any ways Vitiated Leaves. And then that they be rather 

 discreetly sprinkled than over much sob'd with spring water 

 (could a French chef be more particular?) especially lettuce. 

 After washing let them remain a while in the cullender to 

 drain the superfluous moisture and lastly swing them all 

 together gently in a clean coarse Napkin. Then the Oyl 



