LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS 



PLATES. 



WAVES MEETING AND CROSSING IN VERY SHALLOW WATER 



Frontispiece 



PAGE 



A MODERATE GALE IN THE MEDITERRANEAN . . 37 



From S.S. Orizaba. Height of camera 22 feet. 



A STRONG GALE IN THE NORTH ATLANTIC . . - 47 



From S.S. Ivernia. Height of camera 40 feet. 



HEAVY SWELL IN THE NORTH ATLANTIC . . 5 1 



WAVES AND SWELL IN THE NORTH ATLANTIC . . 57 



UNDULATING HORIZON OF A ROUGH SEA . . 65 



WEATHER IN THE NORTH ATLANTIC. . . . 11$ 



THE PROFILE OF BREAKING WAVES AT EASTBOURNE . 143 



WAVES BREAKING ON A SHINGLE .BEACH . . I 5 I 



A WAVE BEFORE AND AFTER BREAKING . . . 155 



WAVE BURSTING AGAINST A VERTICAL WALL . J 59 



BREAKER AND BORES ON A FLAT SHORE . . .163 



THE FRINGE OF FOAM LEFT BY THE BORE UPON A FLAT 



SHORE . . . . . m .167 



15 



