LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS 19 



FIGURES IN THE TEXT. 



PAGE 



COMBINATION OF WAVE AND SWELL . . . g8 



A CYCLONIC SYSTEM . . . . .122 



VERTICAL AND HORIZONTAL CURRENTS OF WAVES . . 147 



THE CHESIL BEACH .... . igi 



CHART SHOWING THE SHAMBLES SHOAL . . . 2O7 



DIAGRAM OF VERTICAL AND HORIZONTAL COMPONENTS OF 



THE TIDE NEAR PORTLAND .... 2OQ 



