CONTENTS 

 PART I 



ON THE SIZE AND SPEED OF DEEP-SEA WAVES 

 CHAPTER I 



PACK 



Introduction Waves on ponds Waves on lakes Coniston 

 Water Lake of Geneva Lake Superior Waves in 

 semi-enclosed seas Western Mediterranean China 

 Sea ....... 23 



CHAPTER II 



Observations of waves on the North Atlantic Conclusion 

 as to height of North Atlantic waves Waves on the 

 North Pacific The effective length of fetch of strong 

 winds on the North Atlantic Ocean The numerical 

 relation between the length of fetch of wind and 

 height of storm-waves Waves on the South Atlantic 

 and Southern Indian Oceans Waves on the South 

 Pacific Ocean The discrepancy between wave-lengths 

 determined respectively by simultaneous and by suc- 

 cessive observation of wave-crests . . .42 



CHAPTER III 



The wave-length of the swell which reaches the shore after 

 storms The height of the swell at sea during storms 

 The co-existence of waves of different lengths The 

 give and take between air and water in the develop- 

 ment of waves . . . . . . 85 



11 



