88 WAVES OF THE SEA 



On the morning of December 29, 1898, the 

 wind, now light, having drawn more to the north, 

 the sky was brighter and the weather pleasant, 

 as it generally is here when the wind blows from 

 the north-west after the passing of a storm from 

 the Atlantic. At 11 a.m. an unusually heavy surf 

 came rolling in upon the sandy beach, the waves 

 maintained unbroken almost to the shore by the 

 action of the off-shore breeze, which, at Branksome 

 Chine, always favours the production of a well- 

 formed breaker. 



At ii a.m. came four large breakers at the 

 following intervals, viz. : 



22, 1 8, 20, average 20 seconds. 



They were followed by an almost smooth sea ; and 



then, after a short time, came a second series of 



four large breakers at the following intervals, viz. : 



16, 22, 19, average 19 seconds. 



At 1 1 . 2 5 a .m . a fine series of seven breakers> 

 arrived at the following intervals, viz. : 



21, 17, 22, 23, 23, 20, average 21 seconds. 



I did not notice any minor waves between the 

 members of the series. 



At 1 1.35 a.m. a set of six breakers came at the 

 following intervals, viz. : 



16, 19, 25, 16, 24, average 20 seconds. 



