194 



WAVES OF THE SEA 



is that whilst both large and small pebbles travel 

 in the one direction before the big waves which 

 come with great length of fetch, only the small 

 pebbles are driven back by the small waves which 

 come from the small length of fetch. 



I took samples of the shingle all the way along 

 the Chesil Beach in July, 1897 (see plate), and the 

 following table shows their weights : 



As we go eastward for the first 16 miles, the 

 weight of the pebbles is doubled every 2 miles, 



