374 INDEX 



Waves of the sea (continued) 



Action of, to arrange shingle according to size. See 



Chesil Beach 

 Action of, to form patches of shingle upon a sandy 



beach, 211 



Vertical and horizontal currents of, 146 

 Waves of rivers 



The flood- wave in, 221-229 

 Tidal bores in, 230-262 

 Stationary waves in, 265-273 

 Cross-stream progressive, 273-293 

 Leaping waves of Niagara rapids, 283 

 Down-stream progressive waves, or roll-waves, other 

 than those caused by flood, 294-330. See also Tees, 

 Ure, Nikko torrent, Severn, Niagara, St. Lawrence, 

 Griinnbach, and Guntenbach 

 Velocity of long- wave in, 221 

 Waves, of ships. See Ship-waves 

 Wheeler, Mr. W. H., on littoral drift, 188 

 Wind- 

 Effective length of fetch of, in North Atlantic, 63 

 Relation of length of fetch to height of waves, 67 

 Table of velocities of, 109 



Relation of velocity of, to average height of waves, no 

 Relation of velocity of, to velocity of waves, in 

 Velocity of, in gales on coasts of British Isles, 119 

 Velocity of, in gusts, 119 



Direction in cyclones, 122. See also Squalls, also under 

 the different localities, as " Atlantic," " Pacific/' &c. 

 Veering of, effect on waves, 132 

 On- and off-shore, effect on breakers and on undertow, 



175 

 Eddies of between wave-crests, 105 



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