HOUSE-BOATS. 



417 



be moored in any sheltered place where there 

 is water eaotiirh to float it ; it is readily sup- 

 plied with provisions and other stores by 

 means of small boats ; it is easily kept clean by 

 the simple process of throwing waste materials 

 overboard ; and it is readily moved from place 

 to place, according to the fancy of its owner. 

 There is no fair ground of comparison between 

 hou~c-b<>ats and yachts, since they are intended 

 for widely different purposes ; but a house-boat 

 may be built for $1,000 with better accommo- 

 dations than could be secured for $10,000 in 

 a yacht. 



The first thing to be considered in planning 

 a house-boat is the foundation or float. This 

 may be merely a raft of logs or a frame con- 

 necting a system of water-tight pontoons, or a 

 flat- bottomed scow of any desired dimensions 

 or shape. Whichever form is selected, it 

 should be covered with a slightly convex deck, 

 so that water spilled anywhere wiH tend to 

 run out-board. The raft is the cheaper form. 

 Its advantage is, that 

 it can never leak, and 

 consequently requires 

 no pumping. Its dis- 

 advantage is that it is 

 hard to tow. The 

 pontoon system is 

 more costly, is also 

 hard to tow, and is 

 liable to leakage ; but 

 it can be so arranged 

 that one pontoon at a 

 time can be removed 

 for examination or re- 

 pair. The pontoons 

 may be wooden boxes 

 or cylinders or empty 

 oil-barrels. By far the 

 best float, however, is 

 a scow or boat of some 

 kind, such as any car- 

 penter or amateur can 

 build, since none of 

 the complicated prob- 

 lems involving wave- 

 line theories, strains, etc., need be taken into 

 consideration. The only elements to be con- 

 sidered are dimensions, strength, and tightness. 

 In the vicinity of seaports it is often possible to 

 purchase at a reasonable figure flat-boats that 

 will answer every purpose; but if it is desired 

 to build, and economy is an object, the follow- 

 ing plan is suggested : Having decided upon 

 the length and breadth and depth of the boat, 

 estimate the amount of planking necessary, 

 and buy common pine matched boards accord- 

 ingly. If tlie boat is to be small, two thick- 

 nesses are enough ; but if large, three or more 

 are required. It is desirable to have the bot- 

 tom or floor rockered or curved slightly, so 

 that she will take the ground easily when 

 beached ; but this is not absolutely necessary. 

 Any mechanic will know how to provide for 

 the curve if desired. The floor is laid first on 

 VOL. xxvin. A 27 



supports, the boards running crosswise or 

 better, diagonally. When laid and securely 

 nailed to temporary timbers, the ends should 

 be sawed off along a line marking the intended 

 shape of the bottom. This done, prepare a 

 second course of boards of the same shape, but 

 to be laid breaking joints with the first course, 

 or, if diagonal, to be laid in the opposite direc- 

 tion. In Fig. 1 the continuous lines represent 

 the first or lower course and the broken linos 

 the second or upper course. Before laying 

 the second course, a sufficient quantity of hot 

 pitch should be prepared, and before each 

 board is driven home and nailed, a bed of pitch 

 should be prepared to receive it, so that all 

 the seams and even the grooves in the edges of 

 the boards shall be filled with pitch. Any 

 number of courses may be laid, according to 

 the size of the boat, but three are enough for 

 any length less than fifty feet. Copper nails, 

 clinched, are best but iron clinch-nails will 

 answer very well, especially for fresh water. 



FIG. 1. 



In driving them, it is desirable to set them at 

 a slight angle and in differing directions, and 

 all care must be taken not to split the wood. 

 This makes a very strong and elastic bottom, 

 absolutely water-tight. 



The next step is to set up the stem and stern- 

 posts, at A and B. C shows the section of the 

 post having a rabbet on each side deep enough 

 to nail on the side-courses. These posts may 

 be natural knees worked out of solid pieces, or 

 they may be triangles built up of plank bolted 

 together (see D, Fig. 1). 



At intervals of about ten feet, transverse 

 frames, as shown at E, should be set up, with 

 the top piece slightly arched to make the deck 

 shed water. The side-posts, F, should be of 

 liirht stuff, only large enough to receive the 

 nails of the first course of siding. The cross- 

 braces, G, may be still lighter, or even ordinary 



