66 POLITICAL DIVISIONS AND 



directed, it encounters the dwellings of Indians, no two of them being together. The best 

 information respecting the people inhabiting the country west of the mountains, from the 

 Leubii to the Cudico assigning the number of fighting-men at from 600 to 800, the total 

 population would be from 5,000 to 6,000 souls. 



Immediately beyond the Cudico, a broad spur from the coast range extends to the very shores 

 of the sea. The river Tirua originates near its centre, and there are some fifteen or twenty 

 families living about the sort of bay formed at its wide mouth. After ascending the highest 

 part of the ridge, at seven or eight leagues from the sea, the road bends southward again, and 

 begins its descent through forests difficult of transit, miry sloughs and trunks of fallen trees not 

 unfrequently breaking down the strength of the horse more rapidly than the patience of the 

 traveller. But emerging from this upon the basin of the Imperial, a sight is presented him 

 which has no equal in all Araucania. Two chains of hills, extending from the eastward, far as 

 the eye can reach, towards the sea, exhibit habitations over their declivities, sheltered by 

 enclosures, with grain-fields, orchards, or pasture-grounds. Through a broad and meadow-like 

 valley between them flows the placid Imperial, well confined within its slightly sinuous banks. 

 Up the stream, and sepultured in its ruins, now more than two and a half centuries old, lies 

 unfortunate Imperial ; and to the southwest, but somewhat more distant, (five or six leagues,) 

 the great Pacific beats against a few isolated rocks at the river's mouth. There is no aspect of 

 savage or barbarian life here well-built and spacious houses, a laboring population, extensive 

 and well cultivated fields, fine horses and fat herds, are all testimonials of prosperity and a 

 thrifty people. 



There is so little current in the river that the tide flows to many leagues above its mouth, 

 and good canoes may be found to speed the traveller on his way. On the opposite shore, the 

 road passes over four or five leagues of pasture-land to the seashore and banks of the Budi or 

 Golem, a stream which exhibits the same picture of a provident agricultural people as does the 

 Imperial. How many Indians inhabit these two districts is unknown. Protected by the trans- 

 versal spur near the Tirua, as well as by the longitudinal range to the eastward, as there are 

 no anchorages on the coast which will permit these Indians to be approached by sea, they have 

 remained wholly without contact with the Spaniards since the destruction of Imperial, and to 

 this day resist alike the efforts of the government to make a treaty with them, and the solici- 

 tations of missionaries to be allowed a residence among them. It is believed that they are 

 not less numerous than those last mentioned. To the eastward of them are the Boroanos, 

 who have been remarked for their fair hair and complexion ; to the south their neighbors are 

 the Toltenos. 



To the banks of the Tolten there are five or six leagues of straight beach, overlooked by a 

 low and sloping table-land of silicious formation, similar to that in which the Talcahuano 

 and Colcura coal mines have been found. Most of these lands are sandy and arid, and there 

 are no inhabitants near the coast between the Budi and the Tolten. The natural history of 

 the latter stream, its fields and pasturage, are the same as those of the Imperial. Between 

 the Tolten and Queule, seven or eight leagues of a tolerably open country, the natives are 

 more docile, the houses are nearer together, and altogether they appear a poorer and much 

 more humble race. Here, it may be said, is the true southern frontier of Araucania, between 

 which and Yaldivia there is a forest so dense that travel through it is greatly impeded, and 

 dangerous for cattle in winter ; nevertheless many herds are constantly being driven to be 

 sold in the markets of Concepcion. 



The interior road through the intermediate plain is much less known, but is reputed to 

 be more monotonous, though not less interesting from local causes, its fertility and agricultural 

 wealth. Beyond the Biobio are the plains of Angol, with the ruins of its city; and a little 

 further south, the fields of Lumaco and the site of Puren, now possessed by one of the most 

 powerful caciques, whose title to command has been won by prowess and his lance not 

 obtained by heritage. Surrounding his tribe, there are others not less warlike and relentless; 



