144 SOCIETY. 



is thrown in a neglige manner across the left shoulder, whilst the remainder, fitting quite closely 

 to the person, falls nearly to the ground. A more appropriate costume for the place a more 

 becoming dress, one better calculated to show graceful carriage to advantage or lend a charm to 

 even a plain face cannot easily be devised. But let us return to the parlor. 



Should you have gone early, and the lady of the house be still occupied with domestic con- 

 cerns, her parlor lamps unlighted, no embarrassment is evinced, no ill-at-ease manner or 

 apology, no calling of servants (and bells are unknown) ; but she quietly lights the lamp in the 

 adjoining saloon herself, and invites you off to it. By ten o'clock the habitues of the house 

 those who pass night after night there will have assembled, and the tea-tray will be brought 

 in, the Chinese beverage having so far superseded the use of mate as to banish it from the 

 parlor. Very few visits will serve to make the hostess and her daughters acquainted with the 

 tastes of a guest, and a cup of tea is prepared for each one accordingly. In intercourse frank 

 and cordial as exists at these tertulias, one quickly falls into the habit of occupying a particular 

 seat at the centre-table. By this time, too, you will be addressed by the surname only ; and 

 though the more frigid rules of your country seem to make the prefix of "dona" or "senorita" 

 on your part essential, it is impossible not to be gratified with the degree of familiar and affec- 

 tionate interest which is exhibited in their mode of addressing each other. A matron elsewhere 

 regards herself as slighted if called "miss," and will correct you at once; not so here the 

 grandmother is still "senorita," if there be not intimacy enough to warrant the use of her 

 Christian name, the diminutive in this case being a term of compliment or affection. 



Sprightly and pleasant conversation, with good instrumental or vocal music, are, very gene- 

 rally, the entertainments offered you. Possessing fine natural abilities, with no inconsiderable 

 share of energy and enterprise, there are few ladies whose dispositions have not led them to 

 cultivate their colloquial powers, and one cannot fail to contrast them with their apathetic and 

 generally ill instructed countrymen. Of the better class, a majority speak French, and speak 

 it well too ; the necessity for this language being greater than any other foreign idiom, because 

 of the number of professional men and artisans of that nation. Knowledge of music is equally 

 common, and there are many fair musicians whose attainments are of high character. Yet the 

 nation is not musical. The airs and ballads of the mass are "sing-songs" of the very rudest 

 character, destitute of harmony or melody, and tiresomely monotonous. Among the elite the 

 music of Bellini seemed to have few admirers, or at best would draw but a listless audience to 

 the opera-house, when one of Verdi's soulless comic effusions would fill the edifice night after 

 night. It must also be remembered that boxes are paid for by the season, whether occupied 

 or not ; and it was not a little annoying, when Santa Lucia occasionally permitted such enjoy- 

 ment, to find oneself near a bevy of ladies who persisted in laughing and talking when Panta- 

 nelli might be in the midst of "Casta Diva" or some other inspiration of the great master. 

 At home, however, a lady will promptly comply with one's solicitation for music, and sing or 

 play as long as you continue to desire it. There is no affectation in her deportment, no plea 

 of hoarseness or headache, intended to be cured by flattery and importunity ; and even if the 

 piano chance to be out of tune, she will touch the key to show that the false note is not her 

 fault: the request is deemed to have been made in sincerity, and she is pleased in being able to 

 gratify you. 



Towards midnight the husband will come home. Perhaps he may pass to his own apartments 

 without entering the saloon ; perhaps salute the guests of his wife and daughters, light a cigar- 

 ito, and retire; or he may remain, to assist in their entertainment during the last half hour or 

 so. But custom does not require it. He is known to be pleased that his wife's parlors are 

 filled, and is rarely thought of. He has a circle of friends, whom he visits all the year round, 

 where he plays malillo at a medio a game, or perhaps one less innocent ; and, as a longer silence 

 than usual seems to call for it, smokes, every half hour, one of those little packets of paper and 

 tobacco, well contented that his family are enjoying themselves with their circle at home. 

 Except the church, no place is sacred from the fumes of the cigarito: the parlor, the dinner- 



