162 THE CHURCH AND ITS CEREMONIES. 



there was not one individual of the male sex so distinguished. Nothing is more impressive to 

 the stranger's mind than to find himself in a crowded thoroughfare in which the multitude 

 reverentially fall to their knees and uncover themselves at the first stroke of the cathedral bell. 

 Spite the dictates of judgment, pronouncing such public pageant idle, if not a mockery of reli- 

 gion, the upturned faces of a silent multitude, and the death-like stillness which that single 

 vibration has imposed on all within its sound, forces a feeling of solemnity on the mind. The 

 rapid strokes of a smaller bell have warned the instructed ; and the guaso on his dashing 

 steed, the carretero with his huge packed ox-cart, the man of business, and the modest 

 donzella, alike acknowledge the power of the priest, by humbling themselves in the public 

 highway when the host is elevated at the cathedral, or as they encounter it in possession of the 

 curate, on his way to comfort the dying sinner. A second stroke is given after an interval of a 

 minute ; and with the third, at a like lapse of time, the crowd rise crossing themselves, and 

 hurry on their several occupations. This occurs every morning about 9^ o'clock. So powerful 

 is the impression, that laborers amid the crags of Santa Lucia never fail to bend their knees and 

 uncover themselves on these occasions, or to the passing viatico, though more than a quarter of 

 a mile distant. 



A circumstance connected with this ceremony, narrated by a gentleman who had formerly 

 represented his country in Bolivia, is repeated here as illustrative only. He states that the 

 name of Christ was enrolled among the Alguazils of Chuquisaca, the capital of that country, in 

 the following manner. 



Formerly, under old Spanish law, the Alguazils were entitled to a body-guard of five or six men 

 whenever they moved' from place to place. The location of the city being ill suited for carriages, 

 the host was ordinarily conveyed by a priest on foot, attended only by one acolyte, or servant of 

 the church. That the body of our Lord should be so conveyed, whilst the Alguazils were 

 honored with a guard, was sore mortification to a devout millionnaire ; and as the title and 

 privileges were purchasable, he bequeathed some $20,000 to obtain a similar rank for the Saviour. 

 Now, therefore, the incarnated wafer is attended by the proper guard. How true the blasphe- 

 mous story may be, there is no means of ascertaining at such a distance ; but it was corroborated 

 by the "hearsay" evidence of a second traveller to the centre of America. There is no doubt 

 that San Antonio long bore the rank of Colonel on the Brazilian records ; and what is more, 

 the church of that name regularly drew his salary ! 



The sudden death of the dean of the cathedral gave occasion to one of the pompous dis- 

 plays to which the church seems prone, since no possible opportunity is omitted to influence 

 the mass. On Sunday, the anniversary of the Dominicans, the old gentleman was to have 

 borne an important part in their ceremonies by singing, chanting, or something else, in the 

 procession to come off from their church to the great plaza and back. But on the appointed 

 morning he was found to have been summoned to that great concourse from which none have 

 ever returned to tell of its pomp. In the silent watches of the night, and when none were 

 present to offer relief or consolation, apoplexy had taken off his immortal spirit. The intended 

 procession was therefore deferred, and two or three other pageants substituted. First, the body, 

 decorated in official robes, and in a semi-erect position, was placed in the most appropriate room 

 of his dwelling. A corps of friars were summoned for chants. Lighted candles were placed 

 round the bier, and the doors thrown open to the public. As is customary with almost every 

 event that transpires, intelligence of it was conveyed through the city within a brief space, and 

 the street was kept crowded by a throng pressing to obtain sight of the corpse. This continued 

 during two days other friars taking the place of those tired down by chanting. On the 

 third day, when most of the people had seen it, and interest began to flag, a gorgeous catafalque 

 was prepared, and the body, preceded by a crowd bearing candles, was conveyed to the front of 

 the altar of the Dominican church. Although in a reclining position, the wafer and chalice 

 were placed in his hands, as if about to partake of the communion. The nave of the building 

 was filled with friars and priests, a portion of whom chanted incessantly the others, perhaps, 



