TllK (III KM! AND ITS CEREMONIES. 165 



My pearls are not for swine l!k< \"ii. The confessionals were all occupied by priests, with a 

 KIHM -liipj prnitriit on cadi side, one awaiting the conchiHion of the other ' * jtewni- i ; though ser- 

 vice was |M-ri'..niiin-- at the altar, and the nave and aisles were densely packed by the crowd. A 

 part of the con in"iiy consists in blessing the palm-branches, which the congregation afterwards 

 struggle to obtain and religiously preserve at their dwellings as preventives against a multitude 

 of human misfortunes. There is no other special ceremonial until, 



HOLY THURSDAY. Every day, and all the day, churches are open, and multitudes who are care- 

 less during the rest of the year become outwardly devout in the intervening days of Lent ; but there 

 is too little difference apparent to be specially remarked by a stranger. On this day the furor 

 of the church-goers seems, if possible, to attain its maximum. Crowds pass uncovered, and in 

 long lines, from church to church, repeating aves; and he or she who makes the greatest number 

 of estaciones as a visit to each church is called performs the greatest expiation. Five or six 

 estaciones are generally considered sufficient, and these can be accomplished without walking 

 more than half a mile; but there are very great sinners whose consciences are scarcely appeased 

 until they have made twice that number. All the churches are brilliantly lighted until late at 

 night; and they, as well as the streets leading to them, are so thronged by the penitent popu- 

 lace that it is difficult to thread one's way. It seeming to have been ascertained here, as well 

 as at the charitable fairs of our more calculating land, that grace of person and manner have 

 rare influence to loose the purse-strings, ladies are stationed with salvers beside each church 

 door, to solicit alms in aid of missionaries among the Indians. 



During this and the following day, the " CucurucJios " a sort of Odd-Fellows may be met 

 rapidly walking the streets, aiding by their costume to render the scene a solemn masquerade. 

 Their dress is a closely-fitting domino of black cambric, crossed by bands of white over the 

 shoulders and back; a long, conical, black hat (whence the name, most probably); a black 

 mask, and a cane a style of dress which certainly renders them remarkable objects in public 

 highways, and well calculated to inspire terror among children, to whom they are held out as 

 threats, if not to secure the veneration to which their more dignified name, " Brothers of St. Sep- 

 ulchre," might entitle them. The object of their association is charitable. Each member pays 

 a real monthly for the purpose of securing medical and spiritual attendance (masses) and proper 

 burial at the close of his earthly career. They also seek alms, carrying a little box from house 

 to house. These are the only two days when they are publicly known as "Cucuruchos." 



GOOD FRIDAY. All secular employments are interrupted on Wednesday at noon, nor is any 

 wheeled vehicle or horse permitted in the streets after seven o'clock in the morning of the three 

 following days. Indeed, in the thoroughfares there is scarcely any evidence of life on this day 

 until towards ten o'clock, at which hour the cathedral becomes the great centre of attraction. 



On the Good Friday of 1850, the archbishop was received at the door of the cathedral by 

 its officials, and, preceded by them, passed through the nave to the altar in the ordinary 

 purple robes of his rank. The whole vast edifice was literally packed with a living mul- 

 titude. A silver ewer and water, for the ablution of hands, presented to his Reverence, 

 commences the rites ; repeated changes of vestments subsequently occupy much time, and, 

 from the attention given them, evidently constituting an important feature of the ceremonies. 

 Luckily for the unbelievers present, this could not be done without the accompaniment 

 of music, and those to whom the sight of the gorgeous robes produced pleasure had two senses 

 gratified at once. Both vocal and instrumental music were of a high order, well executed, 

 plaintive, and melancholy throughout. A basso from the Italian opera company and a tenor 

 from the priesthood were the two principal voices ; but when all the choristers united in chant- 

 ing the solemn miserere, many a humid eye told of the hearts throbbing under its influence for 

 the sufferings of "the meek-eyed Saviour." One must be well acquainted with the forms of the 

 Roman church to be able to describe, or even to name, the ceremonies on this occasion ; indeed, 

 the fact that there is a special master of ceremonies, who, from time to time, indicates the 

 rite and form to be observed in turn, as directed by the volume in his hand, is quite proof 



