SANTIAGO. 181 



granite, quarried from Cerro Blanco, has been used in its construction throughout. Like all 

 other chiuclifs in South Aim-iir.-i, its windows are few in number, and near the roof; so that 

 u h.-ii all the doors are closed, the light from without, aided by a multitude of candles in glass 

 rhainK-liers about its high altar, scarcely penetrates its gloomy recesses. There are no less than 

 sixteen altars in its side aisles; though their grotesquely wreathed columns and arches, in most 

 cases, are neither well executed, rich, nor in good taste. Much more that is favorable may be 

 sai<l of the principal altar, placed about two thirds of the distance from the main entrance, and 

 also of the pulpits and reading-desks. What we most remark is, the inferior and unartistic 

 execution of a majority of the pictures adorning (?) its walls, whilst those of the adjoining 

 vestries, as well as the carvings of the wardrobes and furniture, are so creditable. The cathe- 

 dral is reputed rich in relics and ornaments, to which it became heir at the expulsion of the 

 Jesuits. 



The high altar occupies the centre of a platform elevated from the floor, well carpeted, and 

 furnished with carved seats. Within an open temple, perhaps twelve feet square, and whose 

 hemispherical dome is sustained by groups of columns at its corners, there is one smaller and 

 of circular form. This also is open. Within it is a massive vase of carved and burnished 

 silver, with a fluted and gilded Corinthian shaft supporting a plated globe. The base of the 

 column is surrounded by wax lights. In front is the officiating desk, and at a little distance 

 off, on the south side, there is a canopy of crimson and gold over the archbishop's seat. Two 

 pulpits face each other near the extremity of the platform ; one being for papal and archiepis- 

 copal letters, and the other for the priest who " holds forth" to the congregation. In the rear 

 and on the same level is the choir, semi-elliptic in form, and furnished with richly carved 

 mahogany. In a surrounding gallery, intended for choristers, there are two small organs, still 

 used at the ordinary service of mass, but a much more costly and finer instrument of English 

 structure was put up in a specially built loft-room after we arrived. Of a calm morning this 

 fine instrument may easily be heard across the plaza. Leaving out the boys, who but mar the 

 melody of the parts assigned for female voices, there are many fine singers in the choir, and 

 the music amply recompenses for attendance through service during the numberless festivities. 



Along the massive colonnade within the nave there are rows of carved high-backed benches 

 for the use of the male part of the congregation. Ladies, as in all other churches here, are 

 compelled to occupy the floor. On this they spread small carpet-rugs brought by themselves 

 or servants seats, one would think, not only comfortless from the cold brick floor, but 

 prejudicial to health also. Yet they seem to fancy the position, with their feet coiled under 

 them at least they not unfrequently resort to it elsewhere. Nor are they permitted to wear 

 gay-colored dresses or bonnets of any kind. A dress of black with a flowing manto of the 

 same color, the latter enveloping the head and thrown over the shoulders as men do their cloaks, 

 is almost the only costume ; and a graceful one it is, bringing out every charm of the face and 

 person. In illness some make vows to wear garments and mantos of white or blue colors of the 

 Mercedarios (White Friars) and Franciscans but they are few in number ; and when the morn- 

 ing service ceases, a stranger for the first time in Santiago might well think himself in a city of 

 nuns. 



The other churches of most note for their size are those belonging to the ex-Jesuits, the 

 Dominicans, the Mercedarios, the Augustins, and the Franciscans all convents, of which the 

 second, third, and last have recently been entirely renovated within. That of the ex-Jesuits, 

 La Compania, is 'lighted through stained glass in the roof, and windows surrounding a cupola 

 nearly above its high altar. Its altars and paintings are in good taste, extremely neat, and by 

 far the best in the city. San Augustiu is also well finished and chaste within ; but none of the 

 buildings would be selected as models of architectural taste, and in their very rudeness they 

 differ too little from each other, or in the general style of their altars, to attract special atten- 

 tion. It must not be lost sight of, however, that all these churches were erected at a period 

 long gone by, when Chile was the "ultima tlndc" of civilization, to which artists of merit 



