182 SANTIAGO. 



never dreamed of wandering ; that they were to be built on a soil constantly shaken by subter- 

 ranean convulsions, and in the midst of a community comparatively small in number, who had 

 not the wealthy mines of Peru from which to draw their pious oblations. Besides those named, 

 there are San Diego, San Isidro, San Miguel, Santa Ana, San Pablo, San Salvador, San Lazaro, 

 Kecoleta Dominica, Kecoleto Francisco, Estampa, Santa Clara, and Carmelita two each, Augus- 

 tina, Capuchina, and Santa Eosa in all twenty churches and chapels. That belonging to the 

 Claras, near the southern extremity of Santa Lucia, has been lately refitted, and is a gem of a 

 chapel, with its elaborate carvings of silver and wood, its altar decorated with freshly cut 

 flowers, and its floor covered with costly carpeting. Even the iron grating, beyond which its 

 holy sisterhood pass not, save by sight and thought perhaps, has been covered with gilding 

 if possible, to rob it of its gloom. But who shall tell how many a darkened heart throbs within 

 the golden prison? 



The order of La Merced came to Chile with Valdivia ; but as they continued with the troops 

 and among the Indians, no permanent establishment was made by them until after both the 

 Dominicans and Franciscans had obtained a footing. The former order came in 1552, and the 

 latter during the following year. The church and monastery occupy three fourths of a square 

 near the western base of Santa Lucia, from whose summit one looks into their long corridors. 

 These surround a garden planted with oriental-looking but native ^palms, that tower above trees 

 and shrubbery of every hue, under whose grateful shade the monks saunter in white and flowing 

 robes. If the color of the garment worn be emblematic of the purity of the life they lead, even 

 a Protestant may breathe a prayer from this elevated oratory that they may ere long awaken 

 from apparent indolence and apathy to a knowledge of what man may and should do for his 

 fellow. Their cells possess no great amount of luxury ; and however charming may be this 

 " dolcefar niente," there would be few to prove its ease were it a life of seclusion. Bare is the 

 hour of the day when some one of the order may not be encountered in the streets. 



The monastery of the Dominicans is in a street of the same name, two squares from the 

 plaza ; and that of the Recoleto Dominican (a secluded branch of the order), on the north side of 

 the river. Both have good libraries, that of the latter being rich in MSB. and only second in 

 extent to the national library, their members at the same time being reputed the most devout and 

 learned of any resident order. Nor is it possible to avoid perceiving that the former are men 

 from a higher class of society than the others, proved as it is by their features, carriage, and 

 deportment. The order is extremely wealthy. 



Next to the Dominicans in opulence are the Augustin nuns. The erection of a new building 

 for their accommodation afibrded an opportunity to enter precincts over which the foot of man, 

 except the physician, the archbishop, and the newly inaugurated President at one visit, never will 

 pass when once they come within it. Each cell comprises a parlor fifteen feet square opening on 

 a long corridor, a dormitory within, a servant's room, and one yet smaller for stores, with 

 closets and a fire-place for cooking, arranged on the sides of a little court through which passes 

 a stream of water. Thirty or forty of these cells face each other on opposite sides of a quad- 

 rangle some twenty yards wide ; those for the abbess being in the rear and more commodious. 

 Adopting communism in one respect, yet providing for lives of entire seclusion at the same 

 time, seems a contradiction. But thus the gentle sex live : telling their beads, chatting with 

 servants who occasionally go into the outer world, and listening to every stroke of the porter's 

 bell to learn whether some friend calls to tell her of events in the kingdom of Mammon. 



Before passing to buildings of other characters, though there is nothing of note in their con- 

 struction, it may be proper to mention the "Casas de Ujercicios," a sort of temporary convent 

 erected for spiritual penance, to say nothing of the clever rents reverend proprietors receive for 

 their use. There are three or four of these some for males, others for females ; a part for the 

 better off in the world, and others for the humbler classes. They are large edifices, divided into 

 multitudes of small unfurnished rooms, each establishment having several presiding clergymen. 

 Notices are posted on the church doors of the days when eacli routine of services will begin, and 



