SANTIAGO. 107 



hut torn of the octagonal basin arc made of blocks of red porphyry. From its centre riuca an 

 oblong marble pedestal, with panelled sides sculptured in alto-relievo, representing on the first 

 hid.- a medallion ima^e of General O'Higginn, surrounded by warlike implement*; on the 



100 1, the entry of ( -m ial San Martin into Lima; on the third, the battle of Maypu; and 



on tin- fourth, tin- taking of the frigate Ksmeralda by Admiral Blanco. On its corners are 

 rroroilih-s, from whose mouths flows the water supplying the basin; and above are life-size figures 

 of Liberty striking chains off an Indian girl, typical of the genius of Chile. The Indian figure 

 is somewhat recumbent, with a quiver of arrows at her back, plumes of feathers on her head, 

 HIM I chains on her arms. That of Liberty has a stout club, with which she appears rather to 

 have thumped her pmh'.j,',- over the head than to have contributed to her deliverance from 

 bondage. As a work of art, it is by no means creditable; but as evincing a disposition on the 

 part of an infant nation to ornament its capital whilst ( n<l< avoring to perpetuate the memory of 

 the most prominent events in its revolutionary history, it is worthy of all commendation. 



Two bronzed superposed basins on ornamented pedestals, forming directories for a jet d'eau, 

 and which formerly occupied this plaza, have been removed to a reservoir prepared for them 

 in the Canada, as has already been mentioned. These are the only attempts at ornamental 

 fountains, though there are a sufficient number of stone basins for water to place a supply 

 within a moderate distance of each square. Good water is found within 30 to 50 feet of the 

 surface in every part of the city ; but very few wells have been dug, and, consequently, the 

 family supply is brought by aguadores (water-carriers), for about a dollar per month ; or bix 

 cents for the mule-load, if one buys only a small quantity. A mule carries two kegs, containing 

 from ten to twelve gallons each, between which the aguador seats himself; and all day long 

 one hears his " aguatiro," or simply "tiro," above the thousand cries that render the streets 

 such nuisances at certain hours. To save the trouble of removal, though filled from the top, 

 the kegs also have apertures at the bottom, through which the water is drawn off. As it not 

 unfrequently happens that the lower stopper drops out while the animal jogs along, the aguador 

 must then empty the other to restore equilibrium, or risk being capsized events causing no 

 little mirth among the passing boys and peons. 



Above the junction of the Maypu canal the water of the Mapocho is comparatively clear, and 

 it is said to be not only much softer but also more wholesome. It is, therefore, a subject of 

 surprise that the necessities of so large a population have not induced the government to 

 attempt its introduction through iron pipes, which would enable each housekeeper to provide a 

 hydrant. Now, the water is taken from the river just above the city, and conveyed in badly- 

 burnt earthen tubes, which are constantly out of order. No city has better command of water 

 than Santiago, or is more favorably located for its distribution ; and who knows but that we 

 might see more clean faces if it were more freely accessible? Though quite turbid, and containing 

 ingredients by no means healthy,* the poorer classes drink it as it comes from the fountains; 

 those able to afford it have filterers, made of the conglomerate of shells found in such quantities 

 on the coast from Coquimbo northward. Dripping from the filterers in the dry atmosphere of 

 summer, it cools to a temperature that renders the use of ice wholly unnecessary. Properly 

 speaking, ice is not known, except occasional thin pellicles that form on little pools in the most 

 exposed situations, and melt again by ten o'clock in the morning; but snow, mixed with hail, 

 is to be had in abundance. This is brought into town daily from the hacienda of the Dehesa, 

 four leagues distant ; and, considering that it is a monopoly for which the municipality receives 

 $15,000 per annum, it is sold at very moderate prices. Two parcels, of about fifty pounds each, 

 enveloped in straw and enclosed between frames of hide net-work, are loaded on a mule; and 

 trains of these bring the supply from the Andes a day's journey beyond the depository at the 

 Dehesa. From the latter place it is conveyed to the city in carts. The privilege to sell it, like 

 that of almost every other source of revenue to either the general or municipal governments, is 



* Some say that the goitre was not known until the Maypu emptied a part of its muddy stream into the Mapocho; others 

 assert ihat it came with the poplars from Meudoza. 



