CHAPTER X. 



A VISIT TO THE PROVINCES OF ATACAMA AND COQUIMBO. 



Dl l \KT FROM SANTIAGO AND EMBARK ON BOARD STEAMER BOLIVIA AT VALPARAISO. LOUS OP STEAMER ECUADOR. 

 GAMBLING ON BOARD. PORT OP COPIAP6. ARRIVE AT CALDERA. ANCIENT SKELETONS. PLIES AHD FLEAS. 

 PLUTONIC ROCKS. MARINE FOSSILS. OKU. IV ol THE RAILROAD. LEAVE CALDERA FOR THE INTERIOR. APPEARANCE 

 OF THE COUNTRY. STERILITY. COPIAl'6 RIVER. DUST. DEAD ANIMALS MY THE ROAD. THE CITY OF COPIAr6. 

 BUILDINGS ON THE PLAZA. HOSPITALS. SCHOOLS. EDUCATION. DWELLINGS. PEOPLE; THEIR HOSPITALITY. 

 LEAVE FOR CHAffARCILLO. VILLAGE OF TOTORALILLO. LA ANGOSTURA WATER, CUESTA DE CHAflfARCILLO. APER- 

 TURES IN THE HILLS BY THE ROAD-SIDE. EL BOLACO: VIEW FROM THE SUMMIT. DESCENT OP A MINE. MAGXETICAL 

 OBSERVATIONS. METEOROLOGY. DISCOVERY OF THE MIXES. JUAN GODOI. JUAN CALLEJAS. FATE OF DISCOVERER*. 

 ADMINISTRATION OF MIXES. MINERS; THEIR STRENGTH; PILFERING; RECEIVERS OP STOLEN ORES; GAMBLING. GEOv. 

 LOGICAL DESCRIPTION OF EL BOLACO. NUMBER OF MINES, AND THEIR PRODUCE. PROCESS OP REDUCING ORES 

 ARQUERITE. ORES REDUCED AT THE CERILLO8 MILLS DURING 1850. VALUE OF THE SILVER EXPORTED PROM THE 

 PROVINCE FOR EACH YEAR, FROM 1830 TO 1851. THE DISTRICT OF TRES PUNTAS. PRICES OP THE PRINCIPAL ARTI- 

 CLES CONSUMED AT TUP. MINKS. PROFESSIONAL MINE-HUNTERS. DISCOVERIES IN 1850. ABANDONED MINES 

 RE-DENOUNCED IN THE SAME YEAR. LAWSUITS. THE MINING BOARD. RETURN TO THE CITY OP COPIAP6 ITS 



GEOGRAPHICAL POSITION. METEOROLOGY AND AN EARTHQUAKE START FOR CALDERA. RAILROAD ACCIDENT. 



METEOROLOGY AT CALDERA. MUSICAL FISH. RETURN TO VALPARAISO, AND FROM THENCE BACK TO COQUIMBO. 

 COQUIMBO BAY. CUSTOM-HOUSE IMPOSITIONS AND FRAUDS. HER R A DURA BAY. SERENA. TOPOGRAPHICAL VIEW 

 FROM THE TERRACE. THE PEOPLE. EDUCATION. OCCUPATIONS. CLIMATE. COMMERCE. PRODUCTS. IMPORTS 

 AND EXPORTS IN 1850. COPPER SMELTING. GEOLOGY OF THE MINING PROVINCES, AND DISTRIBUTION OP METALS. 

 TOWNS OF THE DEPARTMENTS OF FREIRINA AND VALLENAR. MINES OF CARRISO; AGUA-AMARGA ; TUNAS ; CAME- 

 RONES; ARQUEROS; ALGODONES. MINES OF THE PROVINCE OF ACONCAGUA; IN THE PROVINCE OP SANTIAGO; 

 IN THE SOUTHERN PROVINCES. COAL MINES OF CONCEPCION. ANALYSES OF THE COALS. OTHER MINES IN CHILE 

 ENGLISH ATTEMPTS TO WORK THE MINES. THEIR FAILURE. 



Taking advantage of the cloudy weather ordinarily prevailing during the month of July, I 

 left the capital about the close of June, 1851, for the purpose of making a series of magnetical 

 determinations in the mining districts of Atacama and Coquirubo, and of looking on the wealth 

 that nature has denied to the surface of the northern Chilean provinces. Signifying my inten- 

 tions to the Minister of Foreign Affairs, he not only caused orders to be sent to the collectors 

 of the customs to facilitate the embarcation and landing of the instruments at the several ports, 

 but also forwarded letters of introduction and particular recommendation to the Intendentes of 

 each province. 



The season and appearance of the country were in marked contrast to the corresponding 

 period of last year. Then the mountains were covered with snow very far down ; the earth, 

 saturated with moisture, had permitted the carts to cut up the roads so as to be almost impassa- 

 ble ; and the air was damp and chill. Now although a considerable amount of snow had 

 already fallen there was none visible at a less elevation than seven or eight thousand feet ; 

 there had only been a few genial showers over the valley just enough to clothe the hills in 

 their brightest verdure ; and the atmosphere was as soft and balmy as an early June morning 

 of the northern hemisphere. 



Only two days were spent at the port ; on the last of which an election was commenced for a 

 President to serve during the next five years. As the warehouses of the merchants were closed 

 and business was very generally suspended, there was much less bustle than is usual, and the day 

 passed off very quietly. It must be acknowledged, however, that places of business were closed 

 and the population left the streets; not from law or inclination, but because of apprehended 

 difficulties at the polls. On the last day of the polling, although steamer day, and a morning 

 when five times the usual amount of business is generally transacted, the authorities did not 



