244 A VISIT TO THE PROVINCES 



open even the custom-house ; and the Intendente, surrounded hy aids, galloped through the 

 streets every hour, in order to be present at every spot as often as was possible in case of dis- 

 order. It was well known to the friends of the government, and to merchants generally, that 

 troops and extra policemen were ready for instant service ; but even this could not restore tran- 

 quillity to the more timid, to whom the idea of revolution brought all the horrors of a stormed 

 town. 



It was during these two or three pleasant days that the zodiacal light was first seen in Chile ; 

 and, as observed from the terrace of Cerro Alegre, its brilliancy was far greater than I ever 

 saw it north of the equator. 



Embarking with a crowd of other passengers on board the steamer Bolivia, within forty-eight 

 hours we had nearly all separated again ; part landing at Coquimbo, part at Copiapo, and the 

 remainder at Caldera, a little town whose existence is due to the persevering industry and intelli- 

 gence of Mr. Wm. Wheelwright. This gentleman embarked from Valparaiso on the day of my 

 arrival, in a steamer formerly belonging to the mail line he had established under subsidy of 

 the British government, but which had been sold on the arrival of new vessels for the line. An 

 American gentleman had purchased this vessel (the Ecuador), and placed her on the route 

 between Copiapo and Valparaiso, if not in direct opposition to the mail line, at all events to 

 take away a portion of the profits on the only valuable part of the coast of Chile. As we 

 rounded the point at the southern entrance to the bay of Coquimbo on the following afternoon, 

 the Ecuador was perceived, nearly submerged, just by the little mole, having struck on the 

 rocks when attempting to go out on the night after her departure from Valparaiso. Fortu- 

 nately there were few passengers on board ; and as most of them had known something of nauti- 

 cal life, they retained sufficient presence of mind to insure the safety of their personal effects 

 before the water became too deep in the hold. Notwithstanding there were several vessels at 

 anchor in the bay, and the steamer was within a mile of the little town when she struck, the 

 guns and other signals resorted to were wholly disregarded not a soul came to render them 

 assistance ; and after nearly four hours of hard work, the crew and passengers succeeded in beaching 

 the vessel just in time to prevent her going down in deep water. This accident added considerably 

 to the number of our passengers ; no little to the gratification of the "sportsmen" who were jour- 

 neying to Copiapo with us, and whose "Monte" was displayed as soon as the cloth was removed 

 after dinner. Unlike the descendants of Saxons, who find diversion and pleasure in books, or in 

 conversation when thrown together, a propensity to gamble is almost universal with those of 

 Spanish blood. More especially does it exist among the Copiapinos, some of whom wake up and 

 find themselves famously wealthy after going to bed poor. The products of mines in Atacama 

 almost make one believe the genii of Aladdin have still their favored mortals on the earth, 

 one of them having yielded its proprietor within a single year more than half a million of 

 dollars! Whether such extraordinary fortunes have created a new passion in men who in 

 many cases were pennyless previously, or its accession but knocks the manacles from one whom 

 poverty had held captive, it would be no easy matter to ascertain ; we only know that some of 

 the miners are notorious gamblers, and are not contented to make the short voyage from their 

 coffers in Copiapo to Valparaiso, or back, without risking sums often of considerable magnitude. 



There was scarcely an hour's detention at Coquimbo; and before night had fairly closed in, 

 we were losing the few evidences of vegetable life visible on the seacoast of this portion of 

 Chile. In the morning the sky was overcast, and the land a scene of desolation interesting 

 only from the varied outlines of distant hills and ravines. As we were to stop but an hour at 

 the port of Copiapo, and the rough swell one must encounter in landing is more than an 

 equivalent for the brief period one is allowed to spend at a place so uninviting, few are dis- 

 posed to avail themselves of the opportunity to try how firmly they can stand on terra firma. 

 But remembering that there were strata of marine fossils in the sea-worn caves on each side of 

 the village, one of which might be reached, the captain's offer of a seat in his boat was accepted, 

 and I landed once more at the desolate-looking place. Had my considerate friend then left me, 



