274 A VISIT TO THE PROVINCES 



adhering to the rocks with a force not easily overcome by one's hands. Scarcely less numerous 

 is a Cardium, called by the natives " Choro," and the Ostrea violacea, which is also found in 

 multitudes on the sand-hills of Caldera. This choro for the same name is applied to two or 

 throe very distinct shells is edible, and its shells are collected to be used in making lime. 



Being within the region which counts with considerable certainty on three or four rains 

 during the winter months, the land surrounding both bays was now covered with verdure ; and 

 many varieties of plants were already in flower, none of them making greater contrasts with 

 the dark-green herbage and dusky rocks than the Cassia flaccida, with racemes of brilliant 

 orange-colored flowers ; a tree Heliotrope, with large and fragrant bunches white and purple- 

 shaded ; and the rose-colored berries of a parasite (Quintral ?) which crowns many arms of the 

 arborescent cacti. From the earth, too, there were Anenucas, bending under loads of scarlet 

 bells, springing in all directions ; and the Orejas del Diablo (Eupatorium foliosum) crept along 

 the surface, hiding, as it were, in angles of the rocks, with curiously formed purple cups, 

 adorned with apparently frosted filaments : shape, color, age enough, signified in the silvery 

 fibres, and ugliness to merit well its name of Devil's ears. But Coquimbanos say one should 

 visit their valley towards the close of September and during October, when the natural pasturage 

 has grown head high, and the earth is dotted more exquisitely with flowers of every form than 

 the gardens display. Then, too, spring offers its first fruit the strawberry ; and the sun 

 pours only a flood of genial light and heat on gems he has aided to perfect, bidding you forth 

 to admire and wonder at them. 



There is a fine prospect from the terrace on which stands the house of Mr. A. The forma- 

 tion, counted from the sea, may be properly regarded as the second table or terrace. It extends 

 a mile back, and nearly parallel with the eastern shore of Coquimbo bay, and terminates seven 

 miles to the north by a valley, through which flows the Coquimbo river. Back of this again, 

 with a like difference of elevation and facial line, is a third. The height of the first table may 

 be 70 feet, the second 125, and the third probably 180. Their composition is a conglomerate 

 of shells. Hills of every form rise to heights of several thousand feet along the skirts of the 

 last; and at a distance of more than a hundred miles, the Andes, at this time covered with 

 snow very far down, fill up the back-ground. Distant as they are, the lines of every spur and 

 ravine of the great Cordilleras are as sharp as in an engraving. On the northern extremity 

 of the second terrace, and embowered amid luxuriant trees, is La Serena, its white walls spark- 

 ling pleasantly in the distance. Two roads conduct to it from Coquimbo: one along the hard, 

 sea- washed beach, over which the birlocheros will drive you at the rate of three leagues per 

 hour ; and the other, just far enough inland to avoid the waves in bad weather, and to cross one 

 or two little streams sometimes swollen during the rains. The former is shorter, and greatly 

 preferable, except on the rare occasions referred to. Seven miles from Coquimbo the road turns 

 from the bay at right angles, and for a mile continues in a straight line over a level plain, to 

 the foot of the eminence on which La Serena is built. On either side there are well watered 

 gardens, bounded by rows of poplars and willows, which form an agreeable walk or drive. 

 The ascent of the terrace to the city is quite abrupt ; and is the first departure from a uniformly 

 inclined plain between it and the sea. A very few years since a gentleman died here who 

 recollected the time when the ocean washed the base of the hill, now at least twenty-five feet 

 above its level. Unless from the appearance of one or two of its seven churches, one would 

 scarcely infer that La Serena had been founded within less than half a century after Columbus 

 first sailed from the shores of the Old World. Its streets are straight, after the fashion of all 

 others built within modern times in Chile, its houses are of good size, and in all its thorough- 

 fares there is scrupulous cleanliness, worthy of imitation. 



According to the record, it was founded by Valdivia in 1544, three years after Santiago; but 

 if we reflect that Don Pedro had only- one hundred and fifty of his own countrymen, and some 

 Peruvian Indians, when he arrived from Cuzco, we may well doubt whether he could have done 

 much more than leave names for localities afterwards to be built upon. It is stated in the history 



