MINERAL SPRINGS. 



are kept up during the greater part of every night. With snow on the mountains so near that it 

 may IK- Brought down in a few hours, as soon as the heat of the sun is gone, the temperature of 

 the air hecomes delightful; and with music, dancing, and ices, under the canopy of heaven, 

 Colina is doubtless in< ire attractive than tin- si-mi-di-M-rtrd capital. Deeply shut in as it i, with 

 radiating and n-llected from rocks nowhere distant 100 yards, until the S.W. breeze com- 

 in tin- morning the temperature is almost insupportable. All who can, avail themselves 

 of the baths at these hours; and as some of the latter are large enough to accommodate half a 

 (In/en haihers at the same time, they frequently make a romp of it, and their shouts maybe heard 

 far up the hills. Breakliist follows near 11 o'clock; a gossip with neighbors, or half a dozen 

 irritos, prepare one for the siesta; another bath for the dinner at 5 or 6 o'clock; and the 

 even in- \\inds up with music, conversation, or other diversion, with ices, mate, or tea, inter- 

 vening. Our night was less charming. 



My companion was too tired to resist the temptation of bed much beyond the time necessary 

 for obtaining a cup of tea, prepared from a little package of stores a traveller always needs 

 here; and I was left alone to enjoy "the weed" in the fresh night air. When I entered the 

 chamber an hour later, he was unmistakably in the land of dreams, and there remained barely 

 sufficient candle to afford light whilst I should prepare to follow the good example. But when 

 one has reached the respectable age of two score years, of which nearly all the latter half has 

 been pased in night-watching, the drowsy god is chary to grant the boon coveted; and though 

 I was soon abed, it was only to lie awake and think how greatly we should enjoy the scenery 

 next day. In a little while an occupant came to dispute the bed with me, and then another, and 

 another, until there seemed to be hundreds of persecutors. Within an hour there was no square 

 inch of my body which had not been punctured by the nimble enemy. What was to be done? 

 Experience gained of the ascent of the cuesta was positively against an attempt to walk, lest 

 the snarling and wolfish dogs occupying the corridor should refuse respect to the remains they 

 might detect at the bottom of the quebrada, and one be cheated of the fame of a "crowner's 

 'quest." It was terribly dark; the corridor was broken by a short, steep flight of steps, some- 

 where near midway ; the tallow dip was utterly burned out, and another could only be obtained 

 from the mayordomo, who lived Heaven knew where ! In short, my position was without alter- 

 native, and quiet submission to the lot in which fate had cast me was all that could be hoped 

 for until daylight would permit respite from the persecutors ; but of all the nights yet passed in 

 Chile this proved the most trying, there being no moment not employed in endeavors to 

 capture one of the bloodsuckers whose proboscis was penetrating me. That at Rancagua, soon 

 after the great earthquake, was long remembered ; this marked a new era in discomfort. Nor 

 could it have been anticipated, for the room was newly whitewashed and swept, and the bed 

 apparently clean, the blankets brought from another apartment after our arrival being the 

 only things which could have harbored so many fleas. My companion slept soundly, despite 

 their attacks. 



Deserting the field of battle early after daylight, a bath and breakfast sensibly mollified the 

 exasperated feelings with which I was tempted to regard everything at Colina. And after 

 ascertaining the temperatures of the several springs, and obtaining samples of the waters for 

 analysis, a mule-path up the side of the northeast ravine enabled me to reach an elevation about 

 1,500 feet above the dwellings. From thence a prospect was obtained, not only of the glen 

 through which we had ascended, but also of the great valley beyond ; their cultivated fields 

 and lines of trees ; their multitudes of mountains and cliffs, infinite in varieties of form ; the 

 agitated waters of their little river, now glittering in sunlight, now lost in shade, as it wound 

 near the bases of hills ; the dark Central Cordilleras, with their wavy and irregular outlines 

 projected against the western sky ; and the snow-peaks near Tupun-at.., ,,ue of the pinnacles of 

 the continent, all blending in one panoramic picture, with tints harmonizing as only nature 

 can effect, and which the eye never wearies in looking upon. Two hours later we were en route 



