342 A VISIT TO THE COUNTRY. 



quantity of rain? or has an earthquake uplifted its alluvial and less resisting bed, causing its 

 waters to emhrace so many Espinos within their bounds ? No other tree was found within the 

 lake, though the surrounding shores abound with Pataguas, Q lillais (Quillaja oUiqua), Peumo 

 (Laurus p.), and Litres (L. venenosa), besides others of growth naturally smaller. The last 

 named, as its botanic designation imports, is poisonous to the touch. In a brief time it trans- 

 forms the body to a leprous-looking mass ; and as we stood beneath the shadow of one admiring 

 its pretty foliage and flowers, our guide, in alarm, called on us to mark our execration by spit- 

 ting upon its decitful livery. According to popular belief, contact is not necessary for impreg- 

 nation. Even some who sleep or stand long under its shadow are" said to be affected, though 

 others are wholly exempt from its poison. Its wood is of a dark reddish color, close-grained, 

 and admitting of high polish qualities which cause it to be greatly admired in the manufacture 

 of cabinet furniture. 



At a rancho beside one of the paths we had given directions to prepare such a breakfast as 

 may be obtained anywhere in Chile, and spent the two or three hours ensuing after sunrise in 

 examining the landscape pictures presented from various points ; approaching as closely as we 

 could to the flocks of black-necked swans (C. nigricollis), scarlet-winged flamingos (P. ignipal- 

 liatus), and white herons (A. egretta and A. candidissima) ; rambling along the little patches 

 of beach, to find a few perfect specimens of the only shell we perceived (a Planorbis) ; and in 

 plucking here and there a cluster of brilliant flowers, until warned by the increasing intensity 

 of the heat, and the cravings of hunger, that it was time to return towards our morning meal. 

 .Alternately riding and walking as a cluster of pretty plants seduced us from the horses, now 

 rambling along turfy sward, now picking a foot-hold among rocks of the mountain cliffs, we 

 reached the rancho hot and tired. But the ponchos thrown off, and our heads bathed in the 

 cool waters of the lake, new life was imparted, and we sat down to our " casuela " with appe- 

 tites no little sharpened by a six hours' ramble. 



Except in Atacama, in every other part of Chile where there are habitations, the hungry 

 traveller may count with great certainty on a substantial soup denominated a "casuela," composed 

 of a fowl or part of a lamb cut in pieces, and simmered with an egg or two and various vegeta- 

 bles. All the ingredients are kept over fire in an earthen olla or pot for two or three hours, 

 and are rendered no little piquant by a dash of aji (red Chile pepper), which the cook invari- 

 ably adds. We had brought bread, a bottle of wine, and freshly-plucked oranges from the haci- 

 enda of our friend; and we amazingly enjoyed our breakfast under the trees, scarcely less objects 

 of curiosity to the group of scantily clad children about the rancho door, than of interest to the 

 half-starved dogs that prowled round us, eyeing each mouthful askance. These brutes are 

 among the curses of the land. They infest its streets and highways, fill it with fleas and other 

 vermin, render night hideous by their barkings, and are eyesores by day as well as nuisances 

 at night. There being neither taxes on their owners nor law limiting their numbers even in 

 the large cities, everybody possesses one or more ; and as their usual sleeping-places are the 

 sidewalks before the houses, it is difficult to walk without kicking them aside, or taking to the 

 middle of the street. Families who have scarcely bread and no meat for their children, will 

 keep half a dozen ugly curs ; and in our ride towards the lake, there was one miserable rancho 

 scarcely large enough to contain the dogs alone, from which there issued, as we approached, no 

 less than thirteen, attended by half a score of children. 



After breakfast, we spread the skins forming part of our saddle equipments under the shadow 

 of a cluster of Peumos, and, using the saddles as pillows, enjoyed both shelter and rest during 

 the hottest part of the day. Around us rose a forest of venerable trees, varying little in the 

 colors of their glossy foliage, and only in the form of the white or cream-colored flowers they bore. 

 Farther off there were fantastic shaped rocks, unchanged since the instant when earth and chaos 

 took leave of each other. At our feet there were Mariposas (Pliycella igneaf), Peregrinas 

 (Alstrcemeria peregrina), Calceolarias, and Siempre-vivas (Triptilion spinosum), with flowers of 

 crimson, violet, golden, and purple hues, a multitude not easily embraced at a glance in the 



