A VISIT TO THE COUNTRY. 365 



except a pair of pantaloons, which fit tightly about the waist, and are rolled up close to the 



hips. Arranging themselves in two parallel lines within the lugsirejn, with arms interlock* <1, 

 their march is begun iOTOM it with slow, stamping, and measured tread, tin- h. of the heavy 

 t'<M,t>tr| resounding 1'roin the open-mouthed tinajas throughout the bodega. Instead of 

 turning ( retrace their paths when they reach the opposite side, they march backwards; and 

 so erOM ami return at tin- same slow, even pace, until the berries have been considerably 

 mashed. Then a chant is commenced, the motions of the two lines are quickened, and a sort of 

 .solemn dance is begun, increasing in velocity, until at last the lines are broken and a boisterous 

 romp takes place. Savage enough they look and act; so that one can scarcely convince himself 

 that the li-ht copper-colored race in the dim and flickering light before him, who, with almost 

 naked bodies and long, flying black hair, make uncouth gestures to a monotonous song, can be 

 children of his Holiness Pope Pius, but would rather imagine the scene a ritual of the stock 

 from which they originally sprung. From three to four hours are occupied in the treading out. 



It should have been mentioned in its proper place that the floors of the lagarejo and 

 lagar are both slightly inclined towards the apertures, that the must may flow more freely. 

 When it ceases entirely, the skins are raked together, and any remaining juice is forced out 

 under a press. The skins and seeds serve in the distillation, and for coloring and giving flavor 

 to wines, if any be made. If any part of the lagrimilla or must is intended for chacoli, 

 it is not usual to take farther steps with it, but it is suffered to stand in the tinajas unco- 

 vered until fermentation takes place. So large is the quantity of fruity substance remaining, 

 that this usually occurs within three or four weeks ; but as the liquor is not brandied, it retains 

 its indigenous name even after the vinous fermentation. If to be made into chicha, it is 

 poured into the copper vessels and boiled as fast as they can accomplish the work by unceasing 

 attention night as well as day. Each kettleful of liquor remains over the fire until no more 

 scum rises to the surface. After fermentation, thus hastened by ebullition, the liquor is ready 

 for market; and the new chicha being held in especial estimation, every haciendado en- 

 deavors to introduce the first supplies. He must have at least one or two mules loaded with 

 skins containing it despatched to the bodegon in time for the grand fiesta of Easter Sun- 

 day. More than one credible person informed me that these skins are stripped from the living 

 goat the animal being suspended by its horns, and the hide drawn off amidst its screams and 

 struggles. In palliation of the barbarity, they allege that the skin will not come off the dead 

 creature either so easily or so perfectly. In this process, the only apertures made are where the 

 skin is separated from the base of the head and at each hoof. For the sake of humanity, it is 

 greatly to be rejoiced at that sewed bags of hide are now coming into use, and no doubt will 

 eventually supersede the pretext for a practice so revolting. 



Both climate and soil eminently fit the country for the production of wines of many varieties 

 in every perfection. All that it wants is persons experienced in the treatment of the must. 

 Prior to 1850 I do not find that any white wine was made for sale or exportation, and then less 

 than a hundred gallons was sold abroad. At the vintage of 1852 more than 30,000 gallons 

 was produced on the estate of a gentleman within u league or two of Santiago. There were 

 three varieties, all light, and with a flavor as delicate as the alba-flor of Catalonia or the 01 

 of southern Tuscany. The period for the acetous fermentation had not arrived when we left 

 Chile ; but though they escape under the influence of its equable temperature, like the 

 European wines named, they can never bear transportation except by subjecting them to 

 adulterations which would destroy their characteristics. 



It has been mentioned that the southern provinces cultivate the vine to a greater extent than 

 those of the north or centre. There, rains at all seasons of the year enable farmers to grow 

 plants on the hill-sides a character of land which is wholly uncultivable on the central range 

 of mountains north of Rancagua, for want of water. Once planted, further thought is scarcely 

 given to them until after they begin bearing and their fruit is wanted. Next year, and every 

 subsequent one, they are pruned slightly; but they are neither supported nor tilled, and very 



