A VISIT TO TUB SOUTHWARD. 365 



were visible below them, the glory of their pristine color long since departed and forgotten. A 

 rulico .shirt with a wide collar, turned ovor the neck of a tight jacket made of faded ticking, ita 

 sleeves halt \\a\ up hi- h"M\ wrists, and cut with a sharp peak quite down the back, a blue and 

 red ponclm ti. -<l diagonally across the shoulders and body like a scarf, and a coarse, dirt-colored 

 straw hut, in t ho form of a truncated cone, hauled down on a mass of crispy hair, complete his 

 ro.siumr. \\ la u it became warm, two ends of a red cotton handkcn hi- 1 were stuck under the 

 hat, thi* rnnaiiidrr forming u flowing bag behind. At the same time, his poncho was put on 

 properly. It might be interred such changes would increase the bodily heat ; but experience 

 proves tin- Contrary, the motion of the horse converting both handkerchief and poncho into 

 fans, \\ h irh kn-p a pleasant circulation of air about the neck and body. For this purpose, and 

 tt> protect the hair from dust, equestrians, both male and female, have almost universally ad< 

 the fashion of wearing a loose handkerchief about the head. Horsemen elsewhere may, in sum- 

 mer, take a hint from the Chilenos. 



Nervous and twitching at all times, the walk of Nicolas certainly was not improved in grace- 

 fulness by the use of spurs with rowels three inches from tip to tip, for there were no heels to 

 his sandals, and he could only move on the extremities of his toes. Yet, masses as they were, 

 a load of iron to be lifted at every step, he never parted with them until ready for sleep at 

 night. So essential are spurs regarded to a horseman's equipment, that the servants at the 

 posadas, not comprehending how or why a gentleman should ride without, invariably intimated 

 to me at starting that I had forgotten them ; and when told that I never wore such things, the 

 bare heels of my boots were looked upon with more curiosity than my light hair and fair skin. 

 More than once they hallooed to companions across the street, "Mira ol cabaUero que anda sin 

 espudas" (look at the gentleman who rides without spurs). But to conclude with ftor Nicolas. 

 He had a pile of ponchos and sheepskins for the composition of his saddle in bulk quite sufficient 

 to load a mule ; yet he managed to arrange them so as to travel on top, though my sympathies 

 were no little interested for the four-legged animal compelled to travel beneath such a sweltering 

 burden day after day. 



As a part of the intended journey would be through a country where the best accommodations 

 to be expected are shelter from the night air, bread, a casuela, and perhaps a little mosto, a 

 sumpter mule carried bedding, luggage, a package of tea and sugar, and some few other articles 

 of provision which custom has almost rendered necessities, but which would be asked for in vain 

 at any country inn. The mattress and bedding are placed within a case of raw hide, called 

 an almofrez, which laces with leather loops at the centre and sides. Besides these legitimate 

 articles, the almofrez serves to contain a multitude of others, and, being impenetrable by 

 ordinary rains, when packed on top of the trunks, it becomes an efficient protection to them. 

 Except between the capital and Valparaiso, few persons ever travel fifty miles without an 

 almofrez, and previous experimental exercises, with fleas in the bedding of the posadas, 

 rendered it an inestimable pleasure to know that when a day of fatigue on horseback was 

 terminated, it would enable me to rest free from these agile young lobsters. In order that I 

 might change to animals of different gaits from day to day, there were two extra saddle- 

 horses. Nicolas had one, making our number of four-footed animals six in all ; of which four 

 were driven in advance along the road, and were secured by his lassoes when crossing the 

 streams. 



The scenery and topography of the country between Aguila and Rancagua are described in 

 another place ; and therefore I need only mention that we arrived within five hours, and took 

 up the same quarters I had occupied aboat two years previously. The elevation of Rancagua 

 above the ocean is 1,552 feet.* A walk through a part of the town did not bring to light many 

 changes or improvements about which to talk with the landlord. The distance proposed to be 

 accomplished next day was forty-five miles, and though I had on this occasion abundance of 

 books and papers to occupy the early hours of the evening, it must be acknowledged that the 

 * By levelling of the engineer* of the Santiago and Valparaiso railroad, 1,600 feet. 



