A VISIT TO TUB SOUTHWARD. 377 



its depth and width. In tin- strongest rapids it possibly attains to seven miles, ami the IIOIM 

 of tin- water over tin- shingly bottom may he heard l'..r a long di.-Un-. During th<- lir-t thirty 

 miles it is often divided into two or more luan< h.-s, though invariably one in much greater than 

 all the others would lie iii a eomhined volume. Within this distance, also, there are occasional 

 snags, tin- remains of tn-i-s l.roiight down hy heavy freshets. At such times the water rises 

 I- 'tween six and - its present level, and entirely submerges the flats that form 



the shores tor moic than tit'ty miles, sometimes on one side and sometimes on the other. Along 

 the lirst five leagues, except clumps of shrubs with small trees here and there, the hills back 

 Irom the river are destitute of herbage; and such continues to be the character of the soutJtem 

 shore full ten miles lower down. Both become more and more densely clad as you approach the 

 n, until, from the edge of the stream to the summits of the hills, there is a forest of trees 

 so entwined with climbing plants as to be almost impenetrable without an axe. Solitary senti- 

 nels on opposite sides, and not far below Los Perales, are two of the coco-palms (Jubao 

 spectabilis) so common near Valparaiso. That on the south shore is growing on a shingle flat, 

 evidently overflowed at every freshet; but Robles, Peuraos, Boldos, Canelos, Litres, Quillays, 

 and Maytens, form a forest comparable in its density to those of North America. The bird* 

 most common on the river are Garzas (Ardea egretta and candidissima), Cuervos (Ibis falcinel- 

 lus), and several varieties of ducks. There was also a flock of Flamingos (Phcenicopteru* 

 i</Ht'j>attiatu8), with their long and graceful necks, one of Bandurrias (Ibis melanopis), and a few 

 gulls, tempted from their ordinary haunts about the sea-side. 



By noon the heat of the sun and the glare reflected from the water became so oppressive that 

 they could no longer be borne without suffering to the eyes. Although an awning had been in- 

 cluded in the bargain, it was discovered after we had started that there was nothing in the boat 

 with which to make one, except the large lug-sail, and this was too unwieldy. The launch was 

 therefore run ashore, some fragrant branches were cut from a Boldo, and a poncho hung over 

 them afforded shade and refreshing odor at the same time. Ordinarily, when there are pas- 

 sengers, three or four willow branches are bent over and across the stern, and a bit of old can- 

 vass or cotton cloth spread over them makes quite a comfortable cabin for inland Chile travel. 



Half-way down the river begin the districts in which timber is cut ; and on both shores there 

 are spots on the hill-sides worn bare by logs which are constantly being tumbled down to the 

 water. These are most frequent on the south side; as are also patches of ground from which the 

 undergrowth has been burned, and where only trees with blackened trunks and denuded arms 

 remain, sad monuments of the power of the devouring element. From this portion of the 

 river the rapids become less frequent, and there are fewer separations of its stream by pebbly 

 islands. At ten miles above Constitucion, the hills rise from the water at angles of 35 to heights 

 ranging from 200 to 300 feet. In some places the formation is entirely concealed by a reddish 

 clay, like that of the hills back of Valparaiso; and in others black and irregular strata of por- 

 phyritic rock form walls whose bases are laved by the stream. Within this distance one never 

 finds more than a single beach, and that continues on the same side only for short spaces, inter- 

 rupted by spurs that project into the river. Here, too, the latter begins to widen, and thence 

 continues to do so almost insensibly, until opposite the town it is three fourths of a mile across. 

 Here, for the last time, it is divided by a low, sandy island partially covered with shrubbery. 

 In the direction of the stream the island is about five sixths of a mile long, with a breadth of 

 nearly 300 yards. A steam saw-mill is in course of erection upon it, and many rafts of timber 

 are already moored along its shores awaiting final preparation for market. 



During the last league the southern shore of the Maule has again become barren; and at the 

 distance of a mile and a half from the sea the hills bend away from it, enclosing a semicircular 

 basin, the lowest portion of whose rim is opposite the island. This range terminates in a steep 

 granitic eminence, much resembling in form the rock of Gibraltar, or a huge grave, though it 

 scarcely attains half the height of the European promontory. It is covered with shrubby 

 bushes and verdure, has a signal-staff on its most elevated point, and on a small plateau near 

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