382 A VISIT TO THE SOUTHWARD. 



pile of sticks was heaped on the fire, each spread a sheep-skin on the sand near it, and was soon 

 asleep, his head and shoulders enveloped in a poncho. Songs or tales form no part of their un- 

 intellectual lives. Work, eat, and sleep they live for nothing else. Nor Nicolas had opened 

 my alrnofrez in the little cabin, and composed himself under the thwarts of the boat outside 

 the screen. Passengers and crew alike had forgotten the world, so that there was no prospect 

 to hear marvels of even Santos or Medicos ; and as there was no other light than that of the 

 moon and fire, I was glad to follow their example before darkness should render footsteps inse- 

 cure descending the bank, and a plunge in the Maule terminate journey and life at the same time. 



April 3. A hazy atmosphere without clouds obscured the sun until nine o'clock, after which 

 we had the full power of his rays during the remainder of the day. As we did not leave the 

 Piedra Santa until the sun was well up, I clambered up the bank again in the hope that a 

 copigue might be found with a pod of ripe seed; but there was not one seen, and the only plant 

 in flower was the Jamestown weed (Datura stramonium), which grows in abundance in the 

 whole district from Talca to the coast. I never saw it to the northward. Dripping with heavy 

 dew in the early morning, the foliage of the trees was beautiful ; but the forest wanted the 

 matins of birds to give it life, or at least an occasional breath of air to send its crystal visitants 

 sparkling to the ground. Utterly silent and motionless as it was, every leaf appeared to have 

 been touched by the icy hand of death. Animation, mobility, are the great desiderata in all 

 the scenery of Chile. 



A light breeze sprang up after we got off; but, as it was adverse, and the current had become 

 too strong to be stemmed, the crew took to the shore, and tracked the boat all day without 

 cessation. So strong are some of the rapids that the launch can only be moved by impulses, 

 and, if loaded, the crews of several boats are often necessary to drag and push a single one up the 

 ascent. On these occasions even the man at the steering-oar quits his post to push, managing 

 at the same time to keep the head of the boat in the proper direction. Once or twice he looked 

 at me, as though desiring me to imitate the guaso passengers, and walk round the rapids ; but 

 the shingly beaches were too ragged and uninviting to tempt me into imitation of the chap 

 who worked his passage by the canal-boat. 



jEolus was more kindly disposed to us as the sun declined, and we glided along with a fresh 

 westerly wind unaided either by oars or drag-rope. Yet, as soon as evening came, a lodging- 

 place was sought, although it was remarkably clear, the wind strong, Los Perales within three 

 leagues, and the morning certain to be calm if the wind should not be adverse. Neither the 

 prospect of double labor next day, nor the promise of an extra dollar for chicha with which to 

 wash down the supper my basket would afford, could tempt them to depart for once from the 

 customs of their forefathers on the river. As the moon was within one day of the full, and 

 the wind would have aided us through the water at the rate of at least four miles an hour, we 

 might easily have reached the landing before ten p. M. ; but we passed the night in the same 

 manner as the preceding one. 



April 4. A light breeze from the westward started Nicolas before the dawn; and he was 

 determined the lancheros should sleep no more, even if they did not go onward. No doubt he 

 was as tired as myself of moving at the rate of a mile an hour, and longed to be on horseback 

 once more. Simple, credulous, good creature, in his way, he had been quizzed into the belief 

 that he had been most fortunate in escaping sea-sickness, and greedily swallowed all the stories 

 invented by the piloto and crew to impose on him. This morning they were determined to 

 have revenge for unreasonable interruption of their slumbers as well as to free the boat perma- 

 nently from his weight ; and under their influence, he actually started to walk the remainder of 

 the distance, lest he should at last be compelled to render tribute to Neptune. No doubt he 

 would have completed the walk, had I not compelled him to return on board when toiling so 

 hard among the loose stones. Leaving at 6 A. M., by the most strenuous exertions we accom- 

 plished the nine miles in seven hours, passing on the way loaded launches which had left Con- 

 stitucion on the day before my arrival. Fifteen men were dragging one up a rapid, their own 



