394 A VISIT TO THE SOUTHWARD. 



Within a mile of the pass, and "between deep banks, is an arm of another Claro, a small 

 stream that originates in the eastern ranges of the Andes, crosses the plain in a W.N.W. 

 direction, and unites its waters with the Kapel near the Western Cordilleras. A little farther 

 to the northward is the principal volume, even at this season not more than forty feet across. 

 On its border lies the village of Kengo. This has but one irregular and unpaved street ; 

 though, as has been already remarked, many of its houses have more than ordinary claims to 

 elegance, and its single thoroughfare exhibits more of life and animation than any town south- 

 ward of Santiago, Constitucion not excepted. The population numbers about two thousand, 

 for whose spiritual welfare there is one well constructed church near its centre. But what 

 most elicits the attention of the passer is the handsome features of the women, an ugly one being 

 rare in the street. True, most of those seen belonged to the humbler classes wives and 

 daughters of mechanics and laborers among even the aged of whom there was a degree of 

 beauty still preserved. Donas of "sangre azul" might not have cared to appear in sunlight 

 when travellers would be passing through the town. This physical advantage had attracted 

 attention when riding through previously. Then it was thought that the individuals seen 

 were possibly exceptions to the mass, not a peculiarity of the mass itself; but as it now became 

 necessary to remain for an hour whilst dinner was preparing, there was ample time to become 

 convinced that pretty faces were decidedly in the majority. Its posadas are by no means recom- 

 mendable. The one having the most attractive sign-board was first applied to; but it possessed 

 only the fowls pecking about the yard. There was no fire; neither vegetables nor a bottle of 

 chicha, strange to say for a country teeming with productions ; and its proprietor was sick in 

 its only room. However, instead of keeping me waiting for the real or two he might have 

 gained, the poor man had the honesty to recommend a neighbor across the way ; and though 

 the supplies there were not much more abundant, no one could have made greater exertions to 

 expedite my journey than did its hostess, her servant coming in search of me before a ramble 

 through the town could be completed. Finding, shortly afterwards, a reptile in the garden 

 which would have been an interesting addition to our collection, it was taken to the house in 

 the hope that a suitable bottle might be obtained for its preservation. Had I been the "imp of 

 darkness," with the symbol of eternal punishment in hand, greater terror could not have been 

 displayed by the hostess and one or two friends who had dropped in, all of whom ran shrieking 

 to the streets. Nor would they return until satisfied that death had rendered the serpent 

 perfectly harmless. As there were only wine bottles about the premises, and there was no 

 mode of carrying such bulk many miles, each of the party went in search of a suitable receptacle 

 for the prize with as much earnestness as though devoted students of natural history. Unfor- 

 tunately their mission proved fruitless. A number were brought, but those whose necks would 

 admit the prize were too large for any pocket; the holsters were already crammed; Nor 

 Nicolas had gone ahead with the luggage ; and herpetologists have lost a treasure. 



By night-fall I reached the hacienda of a friend, where the following day was passed in the 

 enjoyment of rest and courteous hospiiality. Situated, as is his residence, near the high road, 

 one sees quite as much of life as in the populous city mule-trains, ox-carts, and horsemen, 

 passing in a continual stream from morning till night. Pedestrians" only are wanting ; but the 

 poor guaso, even, is too indolent and too proud to walk, and must have out his horse if the 

 journey be only for a mile. Wife and children are often piled on the same animal ; and as his 

 saddle may be composed of twenty skins, each of which lies in its particular place, not unfre- 

 quently as much time is consumed in equipping the horse as in making the journey afterwards. 

 The tinkle of the madrina's bells, the loud cries of arrieros as some hungry animal steps aside 

 to crop a mouthful of herbage or a bite of melon-rind, the creak of cart-wheels as the cumbrous 

 vehicles drag slowly along, and the various wstumes of their attendants, afford no little of dis- 

 traction in country-life. These are not all however* 



The district from the Cachapual to the Claro last named is one of the best irrigated in all 

 the republic; and though pebbles and sand to an extraordinary extent have been disseminated 



