PART II. NARRATIVE. 



CHAPTER I. 



NEW YORK TO PANAMA. 



EMBARK ON BOARD THE EMPIRE CITY WITH 200 PASSENGERS BOUND TO CALIFORNIA. GRAND MAM MEETING. 

 CHAGRE3. CANOES. THE RIVER SCENERY ASCENDING THE STREAM. RAIN. SAN PABLO. THE CHAGRErt AKD ITS 

 BOATMEN. CRUCES. FROM CRUCES TO PANAMA. 



At 3 P. M. of the 16th of August, 1849, the steamer Empire City left New York with more 

 than two hundred passengers bound for California via Panama. Her agents promised, and I 

 hoped to reach the latter city in time for the British mail steamship appointed to leave for Valpa- 

 raiso at noon of the 27th. At so late a date the daily detail of a voyage since performed by so 

 many would scarcely interest any one ; but a general outline of our associates, their habits and 

 occupations, may give the reader an insight into the sea-life of outward-bound Californians. 



At starting, much was "couleur de rose." Both the ship and passengers were in holiday 

 attire ; even nature, though somewhat ardent, put on a smiling face, and, save the heat, a more 

 lovely night one could not desire. As the ocean was quite tranquil, the greenest of the embryo 

 gold hunters boldly promenaded the deck. Groups of singers had collected in all directions, and 

 the glories of the "Sacramento," and "Uncle Ned," with an occasional stave about "sweet 

 home," resounded from every quarter. However, " California," more than any other subject, 

 proved the burthen of the song. Morning brought no change of weather ; but the fine dresses 

 had partially disappeared, and the men began to appear in their true characters ; a majority of 

 the two hundred and twelve being adventurers whom the eastern portion of the United States 

 could well spare! True, there were gentlemen among them that is, men whose consciences 

 control their physical acts ; but the larger number either were, or pretended to be, uncleanly as 

 well as unmannerly. Luckily, at that era of California travelling, at table one was not forced 

 into intimacy with them. 



Fine weather and smooth water continued up to bed-time of Saturday night; but on Sunday 

 old Neptune seemed purposely to come to aid the steward, and prevent desecration of his turtle 

 by such a gang. An old-fashioned smoky southeaster brought a heavy sea, the number at 

 the dinner-table was suddenly reduced below forty, and until the 24th the decks were crowded 

 by those from whom the sea-god mercilessly exacted the penalties of initiation. Whether or 

 not there be similarity in constitutions subject to the most violent attacks, has probably not been 

 a subject of investigation by physiological inquirers ; but we know that love and sea-sickness 

 find no comrniserators, and therefore the gold hunters received little sympathy. The sea had 

 become "very ugly," as sailors term it ; and it was as much as one could do to hold on to his 

 plate. With the air-ports of the vessel closed in, and the thermometer never under 83 for 

 five days and nights, the atmosphere below was quite equal to that of a steam-bath. On deck 

 woe-begone faces were predominant; and cheerfulness remained only with the "old salts," 

 whose ingenuity was taxed to find new tortures for their despondent messmates. 

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