NEW TOBK TO PANAMA. 407 



intimate relationship. In tliis hot climate the church has probably found it expedient to sanc- 

 tion Midi housekeepers, as well as moderate recreation at tin- ... k -pit and montc table. 



Leaving San 1'nlilo about K o'clock, we promised the crew an extra dollar it' they would land 

 us at Cruces bv 1 P. M. The distance was thirteen miles, and the < mn-nt against us full six 

 miles per bom. making about 43 miles of water through which the canoe was to be pushed by 

 in live hours. Gratitude for kind treatment was probably an additional incentive ; forthey 

 cverv inch of the way, and actually landed UH at half-past 12. Above San Pablo the 

 hanks change character. Pebbly beaches, vertical earth-walls 20 to 30 feet above the 

 stream, and strata of rocks occasionally show themselves, and the number of trees and tall 

 canes growing at the water's edge constantly increases. Seven miles above is Gorgona, a vil- 

 lage rather larger than Chagres, and better built, though of similar materials. As we made 

 no stop, we could only admire the beautiful pebbly beaches above and below the town, and its 

 picturesque appearance amid cocoas, palms, and plantain-trees. The washerwomen were busy 

 on the beaches, and a party of Americans were fully occupied with open trunks and clothing at 

 the landing-place. 



The river varies very little in width from the point near Gatun, where we first saw it, to 

 Cruces. There are occasional places, as the mouths of tributaries, or where it temporarily occu- 

 pies an old bed, at which it spreads out to double or even treble seventy yards ; but these are far 

 apart. Its course is extremely sinuous. Above Gatun there is no straight reach exceeding a 

 mile in length, and it occurs more than once after turning a point that your direction is almost 

 back to the bend last left. The velocity of its current increases with the volume of the stream 

 and the approach to its head-waters. When we left Chagres it was not more than three miles per 

 hour ; at Cruces we found it very little, if at all, less than six miles a speed which only the most 

 dexterous management and exertion would enable the boatmen to overcome. It would be im- 

 possible for them to keep a canoe in mid-stream arid make the voyage of near fifty miles in 28 

 hours against an average current of 4 miles. They therefore take advantage of the eddies 

 under the points, hug the shore closely to the bend of a new reach, and necessarily "shoot" 

 the stream to take advantage of it. The canoes, being sharp and light, are well calculated for 

 the navigation ; and they are handled by small, active men, whose wiry muscles seem capable 

 of almost unlimited endurance. Frugal in their habits, mild and respectful in their deport- 

 ment, thankful for the least favor or a kind word, and ready to bandy jests with every crew 

 they meet, they cannot fail to make a favorable impression on all who deal fairly by them. But 

 it is a source of no little mortification to see some of the " citizens of the United States" stalk 

 among these timid people with dirks, bowie-knives, and revolvers enough to equip a small 

 company, threatening death or mutilage if their impossible wants are not immediately gratified. 

 Such weapons may do well enough for California or the Southwest, but are of no service here 

 except to bring discredit on our country. 



Looking back on the journey between Chagres and Cruces, I cannot but consider myself 

 amply repaid for the privations and fatigue. With boats somewhat differently constructed, a 

 pleasant companion or two, and ample time to enjoy its many and multiform beauties of land- 

 scape, I could not point out to a lover of nature from an extra-tropical climate an excursion that 

 would afford him more enjoyment than the ascent of the river Chagres. There are those who 

 grumble at everything even the luxurious coaches of the English railways, the sumptuous fare 

 at our best hotels, and beds of eider-down. Such persons will find no comfort here, and had 

 better remain where they have a right to vent ill humor or bad manners ; but to the traveller 

 who journeys for information, bringing with him cheerfulness and a determination to overlook 

 trifles for the benefit he is to derive, there is nothing to prevent its being a most gratifying and 

 instructing voyage, even with all its present desagrementa. 



Cruces is situated on an eminence of the left bank of the river, which here rises gradually 

 from the water, and is almost destitute of vegetation. It has nearly two hundred houses, dis- 

 posed in regular order; each standing apart from its neighbors for greater circulation of air. 



