NEW YORK TO 1'ANAMA. .J()<) 



mires for more than a liumln-.l yards on a stretch, with rooks and roots of trees immersed half 

 sa.llle-;rirtli tli-rj. in \\ater not of the sweetest odor. I mleed, except where the government 

 troojis have recently |>;i\e,| a fe\\ rods in tin- vicinity \'('ntz de Hierro, there is not a quarter of 

 a mile in the tii>t eighteen from Cruci-s that would he regarded as a moderately good road in 

 th- very worst sections of Maryland or Virginia. Abrupt gullies like flights of steps, filled 

 with hujje ju-hhle-stones, and shaded by overhanging vines that momentarily threaten you with 

 the fate of Ahsalom, now forcing you to lie almost on your face as the mule climbs tke steep, 

 anon requiring similar precaution to prevent mutual overthrow as the frail beast picks her way 

 down a steep declivity, and pools from which the mire and water are dashed to your very eye- 

 lids such is the character of the Cruces and Panama road before the height of the rainy season. 

 The last three miles are in better condition, and in winter doubtless afford a pleasant ride. 

 At that season, as the country through which it passes is more level, though six miles longer, 

 the Gorgona road is considered preferable. 



Though on foot, by taking advantage of short cuts directly across the hills, our guide was ena- 

 bled to keep a little in advance of us and give timely warning of the approach of other travellers, 

 that either we or they might halt and avoid meeting in gorges so narrow that neither could 

 turn to retreat. With cargo-mules this is a difficult if not impossible task, and serious loss 

 may result from the guide's want of care. Custom sharpens his organ of hearing, and on 

 approaching these places he utters a shrill and peculiar cry, which may be heard for a long dis- 

 tance in the stillness of the forest. If no response comes, one may proceed. 



The sun had gone down by the time we reached Cruz de Hierro, and in this latitude, with 

 the shadows under foot at noon, a very brief period intervenes between sunset and dark. Our 

 guide was at least fifty years of age, and seemed to be tiring for the last mile; rather an 

 unpromising prospect, as there were still fifteen miles to accomplish. Contrary to orders he 

 had lagged behind, and was evidently desirous to pass the night in the comparatively comfort- 

 able quarters here ; telling us only a little while before that it was impossible for him to travel 

 so fast, and unless we were armed and would remain near, some of the many picarones in the 

 neighborhood would not hesitate to draw their knives across his throat for the sake of the bag 

 on his back. The same story, increased by the terrors of awfully bad roads, and the impossi- 

 bility of travelling through to Panama by night, was repeated by the proprietors of the grog- 

 geries at Cruz de Hierro. No doubt they hoped we would tarry and might leave something at 

 the monte table, as well as a dollar or two for hotel accommodations ; but it was our intention 

 to go on, and showing the old man our means for defending^ him, we gave him to understand 

 he would be kept between us until we were at the gates of Panama. 



A more lovely night was never beheld, and a twenty miles' ride over a rolling country and 

 good road, with an agreeable companion, under such moonlight, would be most keenly relished 

 at any time. Here, however, there were serious drawbacks to enjoyment. Though a nearly 

 vertical moon poured a flood of radiance on forest and mossy rocks at the summits of the hills, 

 and dew and rain-drops sparkled as gems around us, there were narrow gorges and ravines in 

 the midst of impenetrable masses of evergreens, through which scarce a beam could find way, 

 and we entered them ignorant of what was before us. Nothing could have been more deceptive 

 than the effects of the moonlight in some of these confines of Erebus. The few pencils of light 

 that found crevices in the dense foliage, brightening as many points, seemed huge self-luminous 

 insects beside the path ; and on emerging from the dark caverns, when the moon had declined 

 somewhat, patches of light served but to mislead one as to the direction of the highway. 

 When the descent was steep, these were fearful places for a stranger to enter. No faculty of 

 one's own was of the least service towards self-preservation. There are few who can give expe- 

 rience of the ''blackness of darkness," and at such times one must rely wholly on the reason, 

 or, as the world is pleased to call it, the instinct of his beast. At first I knew not how to man- 

 age her, but kept a tight rein, and consequently was in constant apprehension of broken limbs, 

 by the stumbling of the poor brute as she picked her way among stones and gnarled roots ; but 

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