I UK CITY OP PANAMA. 413 



of yum iii-i'_'hlor's art!.. MS \\itlnmt very close prying. AB in every Spanish town, there in a 

 j. ill. lie .s.|ii:in- in-ill- tin- cnii M-. ..rdimirily u market-place ; but lien- muntry produce in offered for 

 sale in &plazti \\ ithout th-- walls ; ami it lu-ought in canoes from the udauds, there ig a market- 

 place at the Nouih UTS! ^atc, where a sort of whari'has heen hnilt tor cumin. i<ial purposes. 



Of the seven churches once flourishing within the walls, all five that remain are in the most 

 ruinous condition. < >ue, it is mud, wan burned, though there are no visible traces of fire; the 

 other has of necessity fallen into decay with the fortunes of the city. All of them were built 

 of the mo>t substantial and durable materials of the country; yet so rapid is the action of the 

 atmosphere on the porous stone, and the ravages of an insect or boring- worm on woodwork, 

 that the ili-creasing prosperity of tin- church permits no repairs to its edifices. Constant moist- 

 ure of high temperature rapidly germinates seed deposited by the wind in crevices of the roofs 

 or towers of the sanctuaries, and in a brief period they are covered with a vegetation whose 

 roots dislodge masses of the walls piece by piece. The cathedral occupies one half of the west 

 side of the plaza. Its style of architecture, both external and internal, is of an imposing and 

 costly character, and, from the great wealth of the builders of Panama, its service and equip- 

 ments were doubtless of the richest and most valuable kind. Now, in the serai-twilight 

 lingering beneath its arches and columns, the poverty of its altar adornments is scarcely con- 

 cealed, and the crumbling pilasters and tumbling grated windows of its majestic front are 

 painful tokens of its declining fortunes. 



The edifice reputed to have been burned was near the eastern gate. Its still erect walls, 

 elliptic and shell-shaped arches and niches, mantled with evergreen, render it attractive. For- 

 merly its adjoining corridors enclosed a handsome garden, around which the cells of a mon- 

 astery were probably arranged ; but everything has disappeared, except the pedestals to the 

 pillars that supported the roof of the corridor. 



Near the western gate, and facing its entrance, is the little chapel of La Merced, connected 

 with the adjoining church of the same name. That the multitude who daily enter the city 

 from the country may at once implore the intervention of Our Lady of Mercy, it stands open 

 all day. At the time of our arrival a novena (nine days' service) was in progress, during 

 which, and until its termination on "nativity day," the chapel was very generally attended 

 by the humbler classes morning and evening. The early mass was before sunrise, and the 

 evening solemnization at 7 o'clock. On the last day of the festival the pavement in front was 

 covered with old sails and mats, so as to accommodate about a hundred persons in addition to 

 the thirty who could be packed in the chapel, and awnings were suspended over these from 

 temporary poles. The building was decorated fancifully with pennons, evergreens, and an 

 extra number of wax candles ; and quite a number of church dignitaries were present during a 

 portion of the evening ceremonies. Auditors, as well as worshippers, were almost wholly 

 females ; and as the Panamenas are ordinarily dressed in white, with a simple kerchief over the 

 head that permits only a braid of their intensely black hair to be seen on each side, their 

 straight figures, in kneeling posture, illuminated in the darkness by a blaze of light from the altar, 

 might well inspire respect for their faith. The feeling of reverence grows stronger as one hears 

 the melody of their responsive chants beneath the vault of heaven, or under the gothic arches 

 of sombre aisles ; but distance only permits the sensation, the sound of violins and flutes soon 

 puts to flight all thoughts of eternity and omnipresence not previously dissipated by the nasal 

 twang of the choristers, or the sing-song recitations of the officiaf ing priest. From the simplicity 

 of their phraseology and melody, many of their hymn-tunes are of such marked beauty that 

 they often haunted me for hours afterwards. During " nativity day," and to the commence- 

 ment of evening service, musicians with drums and fifes kept up a succession of tunes in front 

 of the chapel, frequently attracting the attention of our countrymen by " Yankee Doodle," 

 " Sailor's Hornpipe," "Nancy Dawson," and other airs equally appropriate for religious 

 ceremonies. Interludes to the anthems played within the building during service were of like 

 character. Another grand celebration came off on " Lady day" very shortly afterwards. This 



