FROM PANAMA TO LIMA. 423 



piously told, " If you had Jesus ('In i-t himself on board, I would fire into you if you at tern 

 t,, land liiin." Nr wjis tin- prr.s.nml application of the Charge" more successful, if more re- 

 >!'< rtiul. Although those on board who had business here would be put to great inconvenience 

 and expense liv \>c\\\ carried on to the next port where the steamer would anchor, all recog- 

 nised the sanctity <!' tin- (jnarant im- laws, and submitted with what grace they might. Rome 

 l.e-.jed t<> I.e landed nit 1 'untu Arena as we passed down, because they claim, that in making a 

 |iiarantine law it is the duty of Ecuador to provide a lazaretto ; but they were not gratified. 



!'! inline that the meek and Christian-like officer of the navy of Ecuador was inexorable, 

 the mail-bag was passed to him through the water, and we started down the gulf at 2 P. M. 

 Abreast of our temporary anchorage there were a few houses on the shore, of the same general 

 structure as those at Chagres, and differing only by being built on strong posts that elevate 

 them some ten or twelve feet above the earth. This is, no doubt, intended to protect the 

 inhabitants somewhat from insects and reptiles. Their balconies or verandahs are nearly close, 

 and seem made of canes wattled together. Cattle stood under the houses, out of the sunlight, 

 but not a single biped could be detected even with the aid of a spy-glass. 



Between sunrise and 3 P. M. the temperature gradually increased from 71 to 80; but as 

 we drew near to the mouth of the gulf, and recovered the S.W. wind, it became cooler again, 

 and the night proved very pleasant. 



October 4. Sunrise was visible through a misty haze, overhanging the arid and wretchedly 

 sterile coast of Peru, just to the northward of Cape Blanco. As the day advanced, the mist 

 rolled into cirro-cumuli over portions of the heavens, permitting the sun to give us the full 

 power of his rays; but such is the effect of the S.W. wind, that the temperature constantly 

 decreased, and at 3 P. M. the thermometer showed only 65^. We closely coasted the shore all 

 day without seeing a plant or a shrub, and only a long and almost unvaried line of yellow 

 sand-hills. A few fishermen, and a flock or two of "ice" birds, off Cape Blanco, were the 

 only animated objects passed. Just at sunset the ship anchored amid half a dozen American 

 whalers in the harbor of Payta. They were here for repairs, or supplies of vegetables. Three 

 others left the port as we entered, bound home, or perhaps to pursue the perilous employment 

 that had brought them to the South Pacific. 



The health officer (who, by-the-by, was a Yankee) was alongside by the time the anchor 

 was down; and, with some brief questions, came on board, he said, "to examine our sick." 

 Finding no such unfortunates, we were at once admitted to all the privileges of the renowned 

 city of the whalers ; for they have probably contributed more to its commerce and prosperity than 

 any other portion of the trading world. So much for a grain or two of plain, practical sense, 

 and reasonable discretionary powers intrusted to a descendant of the Anglo-Saxons. A Peru- 

 vian would probably have refused us pratique on learning the treatment at Buenaventura and 

 Guayaquil, and would assuredly have entailed quarantine at all the other ports on the coast, 

 simply because their health-officers had been so absurd. 



As the customs of the country exact no extraordinary amount of care on the toilet, but few 

 moments sufficed to prepare a large number of the passengers to avail themselves of the liberty 

 denied at the other two ports, and we were soon on shore. And such a shore as it proved to be! 

 But, as darkness probably prevented objects from being correctly seen, it would be unfair to 

 detail first impressions of Payta. Whilst the ship would be receiving coal next day, a better 

 opportunity would be afforded ; and I returned on board to enjoy, with my companions, a basket 

 of cherimoyas and aguacates from the valley of Piura. The evening passed pleasantly. Stars 

 shone out in glorious brilliancy overhead, and the temperature was down to Autumn heat of 

 our central States. 



October 5. Payta is at the bottom of a shallow bay of the same name, in latitude 5 02' S. 

 Its shores, which are quite precipitous, are composed of silicious and clayey deposits, with 

 occasional masses of soft and li^ht-colored sandstone, and are elevated more than two hundred 

 feet above the sea level. Multitudes of marine shells in the upper strata of the hills north of 



