424 FROM PANAMA TO LIMA. 



the town show that they were submerged at some previous epoch. Foliage of any description, 

 or even blades of grass, except those that thrive in the ocean, are not to be seen in any direc- 

 tion from the eminences, unless we look at the windows of the ladies. 



The houses are built entirely of split canes or bamboos brought from Guayaquil, and wattled 

 together, with occasional strengthening studding of wood for support of the roof. Many are 

 plastered with mud and whitewashed, though the larger number permit a free circulation of air. 

 They have high-peaked roofs thatched with palm or cocoa leaves', and wide projecting eaves to 

 shelter street passengers from the great glare of the sun. A more miserable collection of 

 dwellings one could not easily find in a place through which so much wealth had passed ; and 

 yet one of them, by no means very extensive, is said to have cost more than $40,000. The 

 carpenters of the United States would gladly furnish one more extensive and better suited to 

 the climate for half the money. There are two or three churches partaking of the same char- 

 acter of structure as the private buildings. On one of them, not yet completed, a huge image 

 of the rising sun has been wrought, perhaps to remind the people of the worship of their fore- 

 fathers; but, although we awaited the coming of the padre, apparently indicated by the 

 crouching groups of women near the door, it was not our good fortune to gain admittance 

 within the edifice. After seeing us, the prelate started in another direction, and we continued 

 our ramble. 



The population, estimated at 1,500 souls, appear in keeping with their country and the 

 structures they inhabit. They are generally short, dark-colored Indians, slatternly in dress, as 

 the worst of such nations usually are. Thoughts of cleanliness or modesty do not find resting- 

 places in their minds ; they are contented to crouch about the floors or sand under the shadow 

 of the eaves, and to swing in a grass hammock seems luxury. Yet there are interesting faces 

 among the women, with their long, dark, and flowing hair, and quiet, submissive casts of 

 features. The descendants of Spaniards are not numerous. All the water they consume is 

 brought on the backs of mules from a distance of twenty-five miles. It is sold at two cents per 

 gallon. Ship-carpenters receive a dollar and a quarter per day ; the commonest laborers not 

 less than sixty or seventy cents. How the disparity is occasioned I cannot comprehend ; but it is 

 somewhat anomalous that the water-carrier will employ two days of his own time, and that of a 

 mule, for a smaller remuneration than the most common laborer obtains alone, unless each arriero 

 (muleteer) has many animals under his charge, and their hire is of comparatively trifling 

 value. 



The Indians have built two or three good-looking schooners, and there were others of small 

 burden on the stocks. Their models are similar to those of the nation whose representatives 

 are most frequent here ; and it is not unlikely their knowledge of navigation has been derived 

 from the same race. All the timber used is brought from the vicinity of Guayaquil. Boats for 

 ordinary purposes on the coast are unknown, the navigation being by means of a sort of raft 

 called balsa, perhaps from the wood of the same name which is the material of its construction. 

 They are formed of three or more logs secured by cross-pieces, each log a foot or more in diame- 

 ter, and from twenty to thirty feet in length. A platform is erected in the centre for freight 

 and passengers ; a single squaresail propels the craft, and it is steered with a broad-bladed paddle. 

 With a fair wind, their huge mast and sail enables them to make very fair speed ; but in work- 

 ing to windward, their progress is quite slow. It is, of course, difficult to capsize them, and 

 they will pass safely through surf on the open coast, in which no ordinary boat could possibly 

 live. 



Payta is subject to long and, indeed, almost perpetual drought. No rain had fallen since 

 1845; and prior to that, seven years had intervened; but the " oldest inhabitants " thought 

 " the signs of the times indicated an abundance this year." Under existing atmospheric con- 

 ditions, the immense beds of nearly decomposed shells are absolutely valueless ; rain would 

 render, the shores productive beyond calculation. As nothing whatever is grown here, every 

 article of consumption is brought from the valley of Piura, the nearest gardens of which arc 



