CHAPTER IV. 



LIMA. 



TRAVELLING AND SMOKERS. FOUNDATION OP THE CITY. ITS PLAN AND STREETS. BUILDINGS. FOUWTAW IK THE 

 PLAZA. THE CATHEDRAL. CHURCHES. REMAIN* OF PIZARRO. CHURCH ERECTED BY THE CONQUEROR. CHARI- 

 TABLE INSTITUTIONS. PALACE. CHAMBER OF DEPUTIES. SENATE. EDUCATION. AMUSEMENTS. THEATRE. BULL- 

 FH5HT8. SAYO Y MANTO. BRIDGE OVER THE RIMAC. ALAMEDA. MARKET. POPULATION. CLIMATE. EARTH- 

 QUAKES. MAN UFACTURES. 



In 1849 omnibuses travelled every hour between Callao and Lima, each passenger paying a 

 dollar for his conveyance, a little more than six miles. The road is nearly a straight line, and, 

 apparently, is almost level ; but, in fact, the rise is more than 90 feet to the mile. It was con- 

 structed at the close of the last century at an expense of $341,000, its plan embracing a central 

 elevated track, guarded by low parapets, or curbs, and a lower one on each side for carriages. 

 The last mile, near Lima, is well paved, and shaded by rows of closely planted trees, that in- 

 clude convenient foot-walks and occasional stone benches for weary pedestrians ; but most of 

 the remainder is over pebble-stones that have been torn from their places, and loose sand, part 

 of which a moving crowd keeps constantly in the atmosphere. Until one reaches the last half 

 league of the journey there is very little of interest to be seen. The half-deserted village of 

 Bellavista, founded after the destruction of Callao at the middle of the last century, and aban- 

 doned for the present location of that town when the terror of earthquakes had passed away ; a 

 few mounds, supposed to be burial places of Indians ; a wretched church, and a low pulperia 

 half way these are all. Immediately away from artificial irrigation, as all this tract is, the 

 soil seems parched, and there are few varieties of flowers or birds to render the rest attractive ; 

 so that one longs to escape at the earliest moment from the twelve or fifteen smokers by whom 

 he is surrounded. Neither sex nor social position seems to have influence to prevent this use of 

 tobacco. Apparently, the custom is almost universal ; and I sometimes fancied that the gentler 

 sex, who were most expensively dressed, and showed most jewellery in public, not only con- 

 sumed the largest, but also the greatest number of cigars. Whether those of sangre azvl 

 would permit a Gringo to see them thus indulge, I doubt ; but no one else does doubt that, in 

 secret, their pretty lips blow many "a cloud." At that time I felt it somewhat novel to be 

 seated between graceful, courteous, and elegantly dressed women, each of whom puffed away a 

 pair of stout cigars in the two leagues ride aye, and evidently enjoyed them too. 



Subsequently, a railroad was built between the two cities at a cost of more than $700,000. As 

 there was very little grading to be done, it is a mystery to all who have seen the inefficient returns 

 from it, how the English engineers could have expended so much money. So slightly is the 

 track constructed, that the company fear to transport freight over it, though passengers are per- 

 mitted to take luggage on the train with them at an extra charge of one cent per pound. 



Lima was founded by Pizarro on the 18th of January, 1535. The province of which it is the 

 capital occupies the centre of a department also called Lima, which has a length of fourteen 

 leagues from north to south, and ten leagues in its greatest breadth from east to west. In 

 commemoration of the day of its foundation (Epiphany) it was called " La cuidad de los 

 Reyes" (the city of the kings); two years later Charles V. made it a royal city, assigning as 

 part of its coat of arms three crowns and the star of the magi ; and after the revolution it was 

 styled " the city of the free." It seems to be admitted that the name by which it is usually 

 designated, " Lima," is but a corruption of " Eimac," originating in the habit of substituting 



