FROM LIMA TO VALPARAISO. 445 



hi-.rh Mft. Making known to an American in hn>im -s h<-r- that much riches had be<-n <1 j- 

 in tin- cave, tin- adventurous spirit >!' tip- latt.-r tempted him t ,t t an exploration. 



The\ were leventj h'-nrs under ground, ami only i diminished tin- search wln-u accident, fatigue, 

 and \\ant of 1 ; IK-HI mil. A^ lln-y wrrc pi .,<-. edin^ through one of the passages, the 



old freebooter, who WM ahead, suddenly disappeared, 1I- had stepped into a chattm twi 



liv,. fe, i deep, and was lucky in h.-in^ aide (< crawl out much lrni-i-d. At thin place. th<- air 

 was KO !"iil that their randies would scarcely hum : they had heen i.ri tie nearly all the 



time since entering, and they returned disgusted a.-, well as btigned Wltfa tin-: ;' the 



exploration. No .me has since attempted to penetrate more tlian a hundred yards. 



In the direction of Tacna is tlie sloping and fertile valley of A /.a pa. with its palms and 

 greens, lilliii.t;- a large portion of the broad interval hetween the ocean and cordilleras. Cotton, 

 Mi'jar-eano, tropical fruits, and vegetahles, thrive most luxuriantly wherever huano ifeused and 

 water can be obtained. Another valley, whose name is Ocumba (or Loeumbo, for it was badly 

 pronounced to me), is famed for its extensive vineyards, as well as for the other products named. 

 The cotton is a perennial, not an annual plant, and is not -Town to a greater extent than will 

 supply local demands. Nor is there much sugar for exportation, most of it being consumed in 

 sweetmeats, or as chancaca cakes of crystallized brown sugar, from which the molasses has 

 been drained. A portion of the life-stream from the valley of Azapa supplies the inhabitants 

 of Arica and the shipping with excellent drinking-water, and irrigates several gardens on the 

 northern skirts of the town. In one of these there were ripe fruit and blossoms at the same 

 time (in October) on a peach-tree destitute of leaves. 



Besides the exports mentioned, much fresh meat, vegetables, and fruits, are sent to Iquique, 

 Cobija, and even Copiapo, all lying in absolutely sterile districts. Even flowers are regularly 

 convoyed by the vegetable dealers, carefully enveloped in plantain leaves to preserve moisture 

 about them. These dealers are mostly women bustling and active who leave their husbands 

 at home (if they have any), to take care of the babies probably, come down to Arica by the 

 steamer bound north, and have their supplies of meats, maize, potatoes, cabbages, onions, 

 sugar-cane, and fruits, ready to embark a fortnight afterwards. With us it would be remark- 

 able to find a trafficker in such commodities with several hundred dollars' worth of rings on her 

 fingers, silk stockings, and embroidered satin slippers on her feet ; yet such is actually the sea 

 costume of a sprightly young half-breed, who is a regular passenger between Cobija and Arica, 

 and purchases most largely. More than 300 packages of freight were taken on board in addi- 

 tion to the provisions for Iquique and southern ports, and at 3 P. M. our journey was resumed. 



For the first time night brought with it a clear atmosphere, and for an hour or two permitted 

 a view of the southern firmament ; but just as I was hoping to be able to contrast the bright- 

 ness of Canopus and Sirius, the almost eternal misty veil of the coast fell over us. Ocean, as 

 if in recompense, presented millions of animalcule glittering under the darkened canopy 

 wherever its surface was agitated. This brilliant phosphorescent exhibition extended over the 

 whole belt of ocean we traversed during the night, and the atmosphere was charged with an 

 odor similar to that near beaches, where much sea-weed is deposited. 



The lights of the steamer Ecuador were seen approaching from the south shortly after 10 

 p. M., and by a somewhat unwise manoauvre- on board that vessel, when we were within FJ 

 ing distance the two ships came in contact. Fortunately, the engine of the New Grenada had 

 been stopped some minutes previously, or the damage would have been very serious. As it 

 was, she escaped with loss of boat and crushed rails we, with displaced figure-head and a bent 

 cutwater. 



October 20. Iquique, a town containing about 1,000 souls, mostly Indians and mestizos, is 

 at the bottom of a little open bay, formed by an indentation of the coast and a cluster of rocky 

 ishts. Its latitude is 20 12' S. Its cluster of wretched houses is on a little plain at the foot 

 of a bare rocky wall more than 2,000 feet hii;-h. desolate as Sahara. JSea-wced excepted. there 

 is not a blade of grass in sight, nor a drop of drinkable water within more than thirty miles ; 



