THE NATIONAL HOLIDAYS. 485 



before him, I presumed it a proxy sent by the archbishop. At the second visit they perfumed 

 him \vidi incense; next, they lirotiu r lit ;i book fur him to ki*s perhaps the New Testament ; and 

 . .1 vilver crucifix was in like manner offered for flu- salutation of himself, and subse- 

 quently to each of tw. It was borne on a richly embroidered napkin; and a smile possibly crept 

 over my face as I watched the progress of the priest toward* our minister plenipotentiary ; for 

 the gentleman beside me, properly estimating how we would regard such "lip-service," ap- 

 pealed to me iii a serio-comic manner, " Don't laugh, but follow the example of others." 

 Watching >ur lile-leader the President and following his motions, we had been on our knees 

 it would be difficult to say how many times; and I would have kissed a bit of the arch-enemy 

 himself had it been presented, though I rather think my companion would have preferred the 

 ruddy lips of a dark-eyed Chilena just before us : so I put on the gravest face, and saluted the 

 emblem in all humility, well knowing that if it did me no good, it would do me no harm. 



Kxr.ept a Te Deum such as only a grand organ like the new one here could do justice to 

 this was the closing part of the ceremonies ; and we filed out of church in the order we had 

 entered, proceeding to take leave of his Excellency at the place of assembling. The whole had 

 occupied three hours, and we were tired enough. But the day was not yet over. We had 

 emliaiked to render all honor to the nation, and resolved to leave no courtesy unextended. The 

 next step was an official visit to the President at the palace. 



Crowds returning from the plaza, dressed in their gayest apparel, thronged the streets; and 

 the troops marching to sprightly music, with banners flying from the portals of the low-walled 

 houses, produced a scene highly animating. All evidences of the preceding storm had passed 

 away, leaving, under a sunlight tempered by fleecy clouds, a balmy air exceedingly delicious to 

 inhale. Neighboring hills robed in the richest verdure; Santa Lucia, with its castellated and 

 seemingly basaltic crags, surmounted by our eyrie; the snow-capped Andes in the back-ground 

 to the east; the Central Cordilleras on the west, all were enveloped in a bluish haze, not unlike 

 the atmosphere of our Indian summer. 



We were the first strangers to reach the palace, finding there only his Excellency, the " Pre- 

 sidenta" with her children, and three sisters; himself portly, gracious, and obliging as ever; 

 they, courteous and kind-hearted. In addition to the cabinet ministers, I doubt whether 

 more than fifteen persons subsequently presented themselves. Among them the Charge d' Af- 

 faires from France was the only otherxliplomat, and General O'B. the most conspicuous among 

 the military men. The latter stands something more than six feet two in his stockings; is a 

 well formed, graceful native of the Emerald Isle, who lost the use of a hand in the service of 

 Chile, and his breast was literally covered with medals and decorations the rewards for gallant 

 services. Having been early invited to accompany his Excellency to the National School for 

 Mechanic Arts in Yungai, an hour was passed in conversation with the ministers and officers 

 of the revolution who came to make their respects to the Chief Magistrate ; though I confess that 

 the mother and her group of children were more attractive to me. A lunch of haras, turkeys, 

 fruits (Chile boasts the last all the year), pastry, ices, wines, and flowers of the most exquisite 

 beauty and perfume, stole away nearly another hour, so that it was almost four o'clock when 

 our cortege started from the palace. As the French Charge had married a Santaguina, it is 

 presumed he thought it would never answer to have the American Ambassador and his country- 

 men more attentive to the President than himself, and therefore joined the party; so that there 

 were three carriages, enclosed 'within a troop of lancers, that of his Excellency taking the lead. 

 All the windows and doors were crowded to see the cavalcade as it dashed by; but there was no 

 cheering, nor a handkerchief waved in honor of the chief who had fought their battles, and had 

 been called to the helm of state. Why? There was no one present to tell us; and we could 

 not help thinking how unlike the receptions our own late President experienced whenever he 

 appeared in public. 



Yungai being but a suburb of the capital, named after the battle-field on which this very 

 President was the hero, the distance of the School of Arts is less than two miles from the palace. 



