A Thousand Miles in a Machilla 



being surprised that I was not in sight, had sent 

 messenger after messenger to find out what was 

 causing the delay. One of these messengers over- 

 took me just as we were about to regain the 

 camping ground, put us quickly on the right road, 



and guided us to the place where A was 



waiting; not, as may be supposed, well pleased with 

 his two hours' unnecessary detention. " Cooky " 

 discreetly remained in rear. His imagination told 

 him the kind of remarks with which he would be 

 greeted. 



Later in the day we passed a curious landmark, 

 a large bare rock, some two hundred feet in height, 

 rising sheer out of the ground for no apparent 

 reason. We also met a fine looking native chief 

 carrying a spear and a carved pillow or stool. He 

 was draped in a blanket, and had his hair neatly 

 plaited. I asked to be allowed to buy the native 

 pillow, but he refused to part with it. I suppose he 

 was in no need of money, and probably would have 

 missed his piece of furniture. One could not but 

 admire the man's dignity and simplicity. The 

 previous day a native had been induced to sell me 

 the small carved wooden comb he was wearing ; it 

 is of peculiar design, and at first sight might be 

 mistaken for tortoise shell from its polished appear- 

 ance. 



We reached the Mkushi-Serenje road in the 

 early afternoon, and then learnt to our great disgust 

 that we had struck it a day's march to the eastward 

 of the river, and were consequently a day behind 

 time. Why we had not been allowed to follow the 



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