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ney. All the new dyes and chemicals of any 

 importance introduced into the trade during 

 the last eleven years were here shown, as illus- 

 trating "the latest chapter in the history of 

 calico printing." The various dyes and chemi- 

 cals were exhibited in bottles; and the ex- 

 amples in cotton, silk, wool, and mixed fabrics 

 were also shown. Amongst thein was the ap- 

 plication of Mr. Perkin's discovery of coal tar 

 and its remarkable product aniline as a coloring 

 agent. Aniline colors were shown in their 

 varied forms of dyeing and printing as ap- 

 plied to cottons, cotton velvets, silk, and 

 woollen, in shades of purple, reds, and blues, 

 known as mauve, magenta, &c. The colors in 

 silk were especially brilliant. There were also 

 illustrations of murexide colors on cotton and 

 woollens. Murexide, generally called Roman 

 purple, was in great vogue amongst printers 

 and dyers about 1856. This is a guano color, 

 as the uric, and is found in sufficient quantities 

 in that substance, which is first treated with 

 hydrochloric acid, and subsequently with nitric 

 acid. The final result was seen in the speci- 

 mens exhibited. To these were added pigment 

 colors fixed with glue and mercury, under 

 Lightfoot's patent; also aniline and pigment 

 colors. Pigment colors fixed by albumen and 

 substitutes for albumen, such as lacterine, 

 gluten, &c., were shown ; and coal-tar colors in 

 combination at one operation with dyeing and 

 printing. Specimens of emeraldine, a new 

 green, and azurine, a new blue, were contribut- 

 ed by Mr. Grace Calvert, F.R.S., of Manchester. 

 Emeraldine is produced by preparing cotton 

 with chlorate of potash ; then printing with an 

 acid chloride of aniline, in a given period a 

 bright green appears; next the green is sub- 

 jected to the action of a solution of bichromate 

 of potash, and the tint is changed to a deep 

 blue, which has been called azurine. 



Furniture chintz printing, represented by two 

 exhibitors, stood where it did in 1851; the 

 printed table covers were as stationary. Of 

 printed felts there were better specimens. 



In dyeing, pure and simple, a great triumph 

 has been achieved by English dyers on this oc- 

 casion. 



France exhibited largely, and did justice to 

 the power of production alike in tasteful design, 

 beauty of mechanical result, and brilliancy of 

 color. Austria made a great advance ; but the 

 most remarkable progress was that of Russia, 

 for, notwithstanding the disastrous war and po- 

 litical distractions since 1851, Russia produced 

 in this Exhibition most remarkable specimens, 

 probably the best of the kind shown, consider- 

 ing that eleven years ago the industry may be 

 said not to have existed. 



A beautiful combination of science and me- 

 chanics as applied to the art of engraving was 

 shown in the electrograph engraving machine 

 of Mr. Henry Garside, of Manchester. This is 

 intended for the engraving of copper cylinders 

 used in calico printing, and may be described 

 here. The distinctive feature of this apparatus, 

 VOL. IL-28 



apart from its mechanical arrangement, con- 

 sists in the application of voltaic electricity in 

 communicating movement to important and 

 delicate portions of the machine. The cylinder 

 to be engraved is first coated with a thin film 

 of varnish, sufficiently resistent to the continu- 

 ous action of the strongest acids. The requir- 

 ed number of copies of the original design are 

 then traced on the cylinder by means of a 

 series of diamond points arranged on the ma- 

 chine, in a line parallel to the cylinder. The 

 metallic surface of the latter thus becomes ex- 

 posed at the parts required to be engraved. A 

 bath of nitric or some other potent acid is after- 

 ward used to deepen the exposed portions to 

 the extent required, and thus the operation is 

 completed. The diamond points are all in con- 

 nection with as many small magnets, and these 

 are so arranged that intermittent voltaic cur- 

 rents are established in unison with the orig- 

 inal design. The results are that the diamonds 

 are withdrawn or advanced at the proper 

 moment, and the tracery forms an exact counter- 

 part of the copy. There are, also, adjustments, 

 which enable the operator to enlarge or diminish 

 at will the size of the patterns to be engraved. 



Lace Making. The respective positions of 

 the countries which may be said to compete in 

 the lace manufacture have, we think, continued 

 unchanged since the last Exhibition. England 

 has made a wonderful advance. France well 

 supports its ancient reputation ; but, undeniably, 

 Belgium has contributed the most exquisite * 

 specimens. 



In the Belgian Department M. Hoorickx ex- 

 hibited a beautiful novelty a handkerchief 

 which presents every variety of point stitch, 

 and several styles of design. At the extreme 

 edge of the lace border is a wreath of convol- 

 vulus leaves and flowers ; within that is a kind 

 of arabesque pattern enriched with plumttis 

 or satin-stitch, which is quite a new feature of 

 the Belgian laces ; and then comes the triumph 

 of art in a border of exquisite little bouquets ; 

 the miniature flowers are all in relief, the rose 

 showing its circling petals, and other blossoms 

 their natural forms. The small centre of cam- 

 bric is enclosed within a mechanical design of 

 heavier substance. The price is about 200. 

 A section of flounce, half a yard wide, with 

 flowers in the same style of relief, was also dis- 

 played : the value of the set of two, 800 ; that 

 of a tunic with berthe and handkerchief, 

 about the same. Van Rossum showed point 

 sets of handkerchief, lappet, collar, and sleeves : 

 each set is worth 240, and occupied four years 

 in making. 



The French have much improved the "gni- 

 pnre," called by them "Maltese.'' Among va- 

 rious shawls and flounces of Chantilly was M. 

 Seguin's half shawl, valued at 140, pattern, a 

 Chinese garden. The Compagne des Indes 

 showed a point d'Alenfon flounce, priced at 

 1,000. 



The exhibition of British lace was admirable, 

 not only for its beauty and richness, but for the 



