xvi INTRODUCTION 



by tonga or riding. If time is no object and the season 

 is not too early, there are various beautiful routes over 

 the mountains, by Jammu, by Poonch, by the Pir 

 Panjal. Going by these passes camp outfit must be 

 taken, of course, a sufficient number of coolies and bag- 

 gage ponies, also riding ponies, for many of the marches 

 are very trying, and the uncertainty about food and fuel 

 makes it difficult to stay to rest. Going up early as 

 I did at the beginning of April the Jhelum route 

 was the best, and a tonga can be ordered at Pindi from 

 the contractors there for about ninety-five rupees; 

 besides this, a small tip will have to be given to the 

 driver, and there are one or two tolls to be paid on 

 entering Kashmir territory; if the whole cart is 

 not required, a seat can be had in the mail 

 tonga for forty-five rupees; only a small amount of 

 baggage is allowed, the rest must be sent on 

 beforehand by ekka, costing about five rupees 

 the maund (84 Ibs.). There are dak bungalows on 

 the route where the journey can be broken, and where 

 the prices are fairly moderate except for English 

 goods. While in Kashmir the cost of living can 

 be calculated to a nicety. A " doonga " - the 

 native boat can be hired for from twenty to thirty 

 rupees a month, including the boatman ; and a reliable 

 list of rates for the purchase of all daily requirements, 

 from the hiring of coolies to the price of bread, can be 

 obtained from Sahib Rao Amarnath, an official 

 appointed by the Maharajah to look after the interests 

 of visitors. He represents in his fat, comfortable person 



