CONTENTS 



PAGE 



INTRODUCTION ix 



LIST OF PLANTS 



CHAPTER I 



Of the curious habits of babus and tongas Of the wickedness of ponies, 



and disagreeables of an overcrowded dak bungalow The Jhelum Valley 1 



CHAPTER II 



Of dak bungalows and doongas A coachman without a soul And a 

 boatman with imagination Music on the water Housekeeping details 

 and female fashions ---....... 14 



CHAPTER III 



Lazy hours I cry " Excelsior," but the snows say " No : ' Back to towns 



A sheep is sacrificed Shrines passed and the chapter ends with song 20 



CHAPTER IV 



Of religions, painful and otherwise How I seek secularity along a scorching 

 road and am made to take part in sacred rites I write a character for 

 a saint And am rewarded with roses and watercress 40 



CHAPTER V 



Aching blisters and scented blossoms Ancient palaces and living princes 



A visit to neglected shrines and a savoury supper - - - - 53 



