xxii CONTENTS 



CHAPTER VI 



I'AOE 



Some ruins Fragments of their supposed histories Dry-as-dust details, and 



a short discourse on religion in the valley - - - - G(5 



CHAPTER VII 



An early start A distressed damsel finds a strange cavalier Snow slopes 



and sandals A lonely post office Supper and sleep under difficulties - 77 



For the second time am turned back by snowy passes My camp and I have 

 a difference Compensating circumstances Hot march and a rose- 

 strewn grave - - 04 



CHAPTER IX 



A long, hot march, mitigated by many flowers and mulberries I am offered 

 food, mental and physical, by a holy man Rice growing, and the 

 benefits of widowhood The knife that was lost is found, and my crew 

 rejoice ... . 1Q6 



CHAPTER X 



Of waves and whirlwinds A lake with many flowers, narrow waterways, 



and fair women Return to civilization and green vegetables - - 1.18 



CHAPTER XI 



I go a pious pilgrimage And am received with respect Subsequent visits 

 to the gardens of emperors and empresses With some remarks about 

 the raising of floating crops - 1 30 



CHAPTER XII 



A steep ascent leading to fine views and many backslidings A fairy palace 



Precipitate descent and an old man's warning 144 



CHAPTER XIII 



I luxuriate in the spectacle of others' labours Some details as to arts and 



crafts in Srinagar A pleasant tea party and a late return - - - 152 



