CONTENTS xxiii 



CHAPTER XIV 



PAGE 



Water streets A Sikh who desired proselytes Possible faiths A sick 



Sahib Some truisms of life in the tropics - - 166 



CHAPTER XV 



I start for cooler regions Good ponies and annoying attendants I loose my 

 temper and feel the heat Arrived in cooler regions I arrange my 

 camp and note the colour of spring flowers 178 



CHAPTER XVI 



Worried by my camp I wander into the woods Am consoled by the trees 

 but depressed by the absence of Nanga Parbat Catch a glimpse of him, 

 but my raptures are rudely interrupted by irrelevant menials - 190 



CHAPTER XVII 



To escape damp I climb to greater elevations Meet storms and stones 



Return to the shelter of trees and sing the praises of botany - - 203 



CHAPTER XVIII 



Wishing for a day of experiences I have one superfluous emotion Later 

 I achieve the second object of my pilgrimage An unrestful mount 

 Other folks' facts about the fauna of the land 215 



CHAPTER XIX 



A few facts and still fewer names indicating the history of Kashmir Kings, 

 ancient and modern, of varying temperaments, ending with a model 

 ruler - - 231 



CHAPTER XX 



Of joltings and jarrings Wild ponies and fair ways A gentleman in khaki 

 discusses the empire with one of the holy army The seamy side of an 

 Indian summer Homeward bound --..... 245 



Conclusion 265 



