AFOOT THROUGH THE 



of the onlookers added a thunderous chorus. As usual, 

 the only man who accomplished anything was that 

 ubiquitous man-of -all-works, the " British Sergeant," 

 who turned up from a transport cart in the nick of time, 

 sorted mail bags, sorted passengers, dragged ponies on 

 to their legs, and in five minutes we were back in our 

 respective vehicles and rolling along our uneven way. 



Twenty-three miles out the road began to mount 

 steadily, and the faint dawn revealed our weary features 

 to one another. It was amusing the efforts made by 

 each one to discover the likeness of his fellow-traveller, 

 and having at one of the " intervals to change ponies " 

 (they are changed every six or seven miles) been 

 satisfied with our mutual sniffs, a spasmodic conversa- 

 tion was started which waxed on the smooth portions 

 of the road and waned as we bumped laboriously over 

 the rougher parts. Up and up we zig-zagged, emerging 

 from the mists in the valley into sunlight above, a 

 sunlight which glistened on dew-sprinkled roses, masses 

 of clematis hanging in wreaths from white-leaved 

 poplars and silvery willows, and cheered a scene where 

 all seemed decked as for a world-w T edding in bridal 

 white, the creamy berberis and pink rhododendrons 

 only showing off the general " snowiness." 



By nine we were at Murree looking out on tree-clad 

 heights, mountains all round, mountains backing each 

 other as far as eye could reach, and the cold wind 

 caught and wrapped and penetrated one till all memory 

 of the heat and stuffiness of the cantonment now lying 

 far below hidden in mists seemed incredible ; they were 

 things quite apart and cut off from this brisk climate. 

 Here were people walking about in fur cloaks, Tommies 

 in thickest overcoats, natives with their heads in 



