KASHMIR VALLEYS 5 



voluminous comforters, and a big fire blazing in the 

 " guest room " of the hotel was hailed with joy. 



We could not stay round it for long, and by ten I 

 had started on the second stage of my long drive in a 

 tonga of exactly the same build as the one in which I 

 had ascended to Murree. Slung on two wheels, it was 

 in shape something like a low pony cart, the two seats 

 placed back to back, a canopy over it protecting us 

 partially from rain and sun. The ponies were harnessed 



Tonga 



one between the shafts, the other giving " outside help," 

 and running quite independently save for one strap. 

 The system sounds impossible, but in practice worked 

 fairly well, the wickeder animal having free scope for 

 his sins, the milder keeping the vehicle straight on its 

 path, assisted by the forward jerks of its companion. 

 The road was very steep and slippery, and we proceeded 

 at a pace distinctly to be marked "prestissimo." 

 Suddenly the rain clouds broke and emptied themselves, 

 and it was as if the heavens were descending in sheets 



