INTRODUCTION xi 



unnecessary thinness the tempers of master and coolies, 

 if provision is made for every exigency in life, including 

 the leaving of it with proper pomp and circumstance. 

 A good servant will " always provide " not only the 

 bare wherewithal of life, but such addenda as in his 

 estimation are warranted by the position of his master 

 and his own monthly wage. If he is well treated he 

 will return the compliment, will see to your comfort 

 for his charge is more valuable to him alive than dead 

 and in case of demise will superintend all arrange- 

 ments with a nice calculation as to the exact amount of 

 pomp suitable to your income and dignity. 



All that is necessary before arriving in the country 

 is to provide one's self with some strong footwear 

 Kashmirian shoes, like many of their other manu- 

 factures, belonging more to the beautiful than 

 durable order; any instruments and books required 

 by one's special hobby be it science, sport, or 

 art; some literature light in matter and form 

 for coolies and ponies are the most formidable 

 item of expenditure; photographic apparatus and 

 saddlery, for want of which I suffered severely; and 

 if there is any likelihood that the gay throng of fashion 

 at Srinagar or Gulmerg will be entered, some English 

 gowns and millinery will go a long way towards 

 inspiring that respect that Englishwomen always hope 

 for from their own sex ! In Srinagar may be purchased 

 all the ordinary requirements for life " out of society." 

 The homespuns woven all over the valley in the long 

 winter months may be bought for very little, and the 



